Type: Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches
FA: Bob Gaines, Frank Bentwood, & Kelly Vaught, Sept. 2009
Page Views: 1,070 total · 8/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Sep 24, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This is a two pitch face route that links a variety of features between The Rack and The Jamcrack.

Begin with the first few moves of The Trough, then step right and follow a thin crack until it peters out. Friction moves up and left (5.9 PG) lead to the first bolt. Traverse left (5.10a) to a flake, then follow the flake system as it curves up and right to another bolt. Lieback the thinning flake (5.9 PG) to the third bolt. Above is a small flake that accepts thin pro (#1 metolious), then the crux: a bizarre sequence (5.10b/c) over a small roof (protected by a bolt) above which is the belay stance with a 2-bolt belay/rap anchor. (35 meter rappel from here).

Pitch 2: Up the slab past 2 bolts, moving right at the second bolt on 5.9 friction, then up easier (5.7 PG) face to a flake (#3 Camalot). Step over a small roof at a bolt (5.9+) then up easier slab to the top. This pitch ends on Pine Tree Ledge.

You can rap from the big pine tree all the way to the ground with two 70 meter ropes, or make two 35 meter rappels with a single 70 meter rope. This pine tree is fairly girthy, so note that you'll need some double-length webbing/slings to rig a rappel.


The crux sections of this route are all right at a bolt, but there are sections of somewhat runout climbing in the 5.8/5.9 range.

Here's the rack I used:

One #6 Black Diamond Microstopper
Three #1 Metolius CDs
One #2 Metolius CD
One #3/4 Metolius offset CD
One each Camalots #.4,#.75,#2,#3