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Legends of the Fall
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 12
votes
Routes in West Face - Left Side
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Blank, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cutter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dave's Deviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dave's Deviation Direct Start T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Devil's Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Frightful Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Gallwas' Gallop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jam Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jonah T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Legends of the Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Manwich T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Passover, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Piton Pooper T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Poker Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poker Face Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rack, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scarface T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Spiders From Mars/Lower Royals Arch/Ziggy Stardust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sweedish Variation T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tradiban's Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trough, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2 M1 |
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Upper Royal's Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whale Walk T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Bob Gaines, Frank Bentwood, & Kelly Vaught, Sept. 2009 |
| Page Views: | 1,753 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Sep 24, 2009 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is a two pitch face route that links a variety of features between The Rack and The Jamcrack.
Begin with the first few moves of The Trough, then step right and follow a thin crack until it peters out. Friction moves up and left (5.9 PG) lead to the first bolt. Traverse left (5.10a) to a flake, then follow the flake system as it curves up and right to another bolt. Lieback the thinning flake (5.9 PG) to the third bolt. Above is a small flake that accepts thin pro (#1 metolious), then the crux: a bizarre sequence (5.10b/c) over a small roof (protected by a bolt) above which is the belay stance with a 2-bolt belay/rap anchor. (35 meter rappel from here).
Pitch 2: Up the slab past 2 bolts, moving right at the second bolt on 5.9 friction, then up easier (5.7 PG) face to a flake (#3 Camalot). Step over a small roof at a bolt (5.9+) then up easier slab to the top. This pitch ends on Pine Tree Ledge.
You can rap from the big pine tree all the way to the ground with two 70 meter ropes, or make two 35 meter rappels with a single 70 meter rope. This pine tree is fairly girthy, so note that you'll need some double-length webbing/slings to rig a rappel.
Begin with the first few moves of The Trough, then step right and follow a thin crack until it peters out. Friction moves up and left (5.9 PG) lead to the first bolt. Traverse left (5.10a) to a flake, then follow the flake system as it curves up and right to another bolt. Lieback the thinning flake (5.9 PG) to the third bolt. Above is a small flake that accepts thin pro (#1 metolious), then the crux: a bizarre sequence (5.10b/c) over a small roof (protected by a bolt) above which is the belay stance with a 2-bolt belay/rap anchor. (35 meter rappel from here).
Pitch 2: Up the slab past 2 bolts, moving right at the second bolt on 5.9 friction, then up easier (5.7 PG) face to a flake (#3 Camalot). Step over a small roof at a bolt (5.9+) then up easier slab to the top. This pitch ends on Pine Tree Ledge.
You can rap from the big pine tree all the way to the ground with two 70 meter ropes, or make two 35 meter rappels with a single 70 meter rope. This pine tree is fairly girthy, so note that you'll need some double-length webbing/slings to rig a rappel.
Protection
The crux sections of this route are all right at a bolt, but there are sections of somewhat runout climbing in the 5.8/5.9 range.
Here's the rack I used:
One #6 Black Diamond Microstopper
Three #1 Metolius CDs
One #2 Metolius CD
One #3/4 Metolius offset CD
One each Camalots #.4,#.75,#2,#3
Here's the rack I used:
One #6 Black Diamond Microstopper
Three #1 Metolius CDs
One #2 Metolius CD
One #3/4 Metolius offset CD
One each Camalots #.4,#.75,#2,#3
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