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Routes in West Face - Left Side

Blank, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dave's Deviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dave's Deviation Direct Start T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devil's Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Frightful Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gallwas' Gallop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jam Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jonah T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Legends of the Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Manwich T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Passover, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Piton Pooper T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poker Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rack, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scarface T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Spiders From Mars/Lower Royals Arch/Ziggy Stardust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Upper Royal's Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale Walk T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob Gaines, Frank Bentwood, & Kelly Vaught, Sept. 2009
Page Views: 415 total, 4/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Sep 24, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a two pitch face route that links a variety of features between The Rack and The Jamcrack.

Begin with the first few moves of The Trough, then step right and follow a thin crack until it peters out. Friction moves up and left (5.9) lead to the first bolt. Traverse left (5.10a) to a flake, then follow the flake system as it curves up and right to another bolt. Lieback the thinning flake (5.9 PG) to the third bolt. Above is a small flake that accepts thin pro (#1 metolious) then the crux: a bizarre sequence (5.10b/c) over a small roof (protected by a bolt) above which is the belay stance with a 2-bolt belay/rap anchor.(35 meter rappel from here).

Pitch 2: Up the slab past 2 bolts, moving right at the second bolt on 5.9 friction, then up easier (5.7 PG) face to a flake (#3 Camalot). Step over a small roof at a bolt (5.9+) then up easier slab to the top. This pitch ends on Pine Tree Ledge.

You can rap from the big pine tree all the way to the ground with two 70 Meter ropes, or make two 35 meter rappels with a single 70 meter rope.

Protection

The crux sections of this route are all right at a bolt, but there are sections of somewhat runout climbing in the 5.8/5.9 range.

Here's the rack I used:

One #6 Black Diamond Microstopper
Three #1 Metolius CDs
One #2 Metolius CD
One #3/4 Metolius offset CD
One each Camalots #.4,#.75,#2,#3

Photos

Tradiban  
 
Great route but pretty heady to get to that first bolt, the gear below you isn't awesome. I took the 2nd pitch traversing right at the end to finish on the final pitch of Jonah. Sep 11, 2016
J Smith
  5.10b/c
J Smith  
  5.10b/c
Fun route and a good addition to the area. Heady move on 5.8 friction reaching the first bolt. There is some loose rock right below the crux roof on the first pitch, it can easily be avoided. Aug 26, 2012
x15x15
 
x15x15  
 
BG routes are always great, imho. this one is no exception and you better be thoughtful if you expect to climb this one. great climb, with some pretty bold stuff for us mortals... Apr 28, 2012
sam.f
Santa Cruz, CA
sam.f   Santa Cruz, CA
This thing looks pretty cool. I may have to check it out this weekend. If so, I'll reply with my 2 cents... Nice work and thanks for sharing! Oct 16, 2009