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Routes in West Face - Left Side

Blank, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dave's Deviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dave's Deviation Direct Start T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Devil's Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Frightful Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gallwas' Gallop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jam Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jonah T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Legends of the Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Manwich T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Passover, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Piton Pooper T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poker Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rack, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scarface T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Spiders From Mars/Lower Royals Arch/Ziggy Stardust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Upper Royal's Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale Walk T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mark and Beverly Powell, August 1966
Page Views: 1,010 total · 7/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This was a bold route for its time, and it still provides excitement. It starts fifty feet left of Angel’s Fright, at a tree. Pitch 1 has 5.10A moves near the top of the initial crack, and on the face above. Belay at the large ledge, or continue on much easier ground to a smaller stance at the top of some steep flakes. Start the crux pitch with some 5.9 face climbing past two bolts. A good stopper protects a 15 foot traverse to the right, along the lip of a small roof. Another solid stopper can be placed here, to protect the crux moves ten feet above. After you do the crux moves, a bolt protects a short 5.9 section to the belay. Traverse left and finish on The Trough.


light rack, with mostly small gear


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The first pitch is great, although it doesn't seem to see much traffic. It makes for a nice alternative to Human Fright or Dave's Deviation, if those classic lines are swamped...

bring some small stuff. Jun 6, 2010
P1 is a great 10a with a bolted anchor. P2 has great climbing but the bolts are SHIT! Looks like roofing nails pounded with home made aluminum hangers. Jul 29, 2015
the first time doing this route, the lone bolt on the first pitch protecting the 10- move was also one of the crappy, nailed in aluminum hanger. I never understood why only that one bolt was upgraded. Jul 30, 2015
Between Human Fright, Dave's Deviation and Devil's Delight you have 3 amazing warm-up pitches with rap anchors on the West Face with G protection, no need to wait for crowds! Sep 21, 2015

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