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Devil's Delight

5.10b R, Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.6 from 20 votes
FA: Mark and Beverly Powell, August 1966
California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > W Face - Left Side

Description

This was a bold route for its time, and it still provides excitement. 

It starts fifty feet left of Angel's Fright at a tree. 

Pitch 1 has 5.10A moves near the top of the initial crack, and on the face above. Belay at the large ledge, or continue on much easier ground to a smaller stance at the top of some steep flakes. 

Start the crux pitch with some 5.9 face climbing past two bolts. A good stopper protects a 15 foot traverse to the right, along the lip of a small roof. Another solid stopper can be placed here, to protect the crux moves ten feet above. After you do the crux moves, a bolt protects a short 5.9 section to the belay.

 Traverse left and finish on The Trough.

Protection

light rack, with mostly small gear

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The first pitch is great, although it doesn't seem to see much traffic. It makes for a nice alternative to Human Fright or Dave's Deviation, if those classic lines are swamped...

bring some small stuff. Jun 6, 2010
[Hide Comment] P1 is a great 10a with a bolted anchor. P2 has great climbing but the bolts are SHIT! Looks like roofing nails pounded with home made aluminum hangers. Jul 29, 2015
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[Hide Comment] the first time doing this route, the lone bolt on the first pitch protecting the 10- move was also one of the crappy, nailed in aluminum hanger. I never understood why only that one bolt was upgraded. Jul 30, 2015
[Hide Comment] Between Human Fright, Dave's Deviation and Devil's Delight you have 3 amazing warm-up pitches with rap anchors on the West Face with G protection, no need to wait for crowds! Sep 21, 2015
Jaime Camp Beebe
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] P1, Super fun climb with a lot of variety. Starts with a crack, onto a face, layback, then tops out with some slab moves. Nov 6, 2022
Andre Ribeiro
Idyllwild, CA
 
[Hide Comment] The first pitch is really good with adequate protection. The move exiting the crack is committing but it's over quickly. The R rating does not apply to the first pitch (can't say about the second) Aug 6, 2023