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Routes in West Face - Center (Flintstone Slab)

Angel's Fright T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Angel's Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Barney TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedrock T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Betty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blankety Blank T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cary Granite T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dino T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fright Night T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great Gazoo, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Human Fright T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Slate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quarry, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Switchbacks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Switchbacks, Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Twinkletoes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon & Charlie Peterson, August 1997
Page Views: 1,556 total, 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 7, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb thin slab (5.11a) right of Wilma past 4 bolts to join that route at it's 2nd bolt, climb along that route for 3 bolts and then head more or less straight up past 5 more bolts to a bolted anchor shared with Wilma. Note: Some of the bolts will benefit from the use of full-length runners instead of quickdraws to cut down on the rope drag which will likely occur.

  • From the anchors atop Wilma a 60 meter rope will just reach the ground by rapping slightly diagonally to the base (100' rap); an alternative is to rap 80' to the anchors atop the first pitch of Blanketty Blank and then make another 50' rap to the ground.

Excellent face climbing on this route that will grab your attention from the start and then hold your interest as you wander upward finding the path of least resistance while making some cool moves. Highly recommended for the grade and possible to use as a harder, alternate start into the classic Fingertrip by traversing up and right from the anchors.

Location

Located about 75' right of Blanketty Blank and 30' left of Wilma, and a short distance left of The Slab, a large left-facing corner system left of Fingertrip.

Protection

12 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (100'), include some full-length runners for some of the bolts

Photos

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Tradiban  
 
Yes, to the first bolt is a little intense. Make sure to traverse left at the second bolt (crux), a little hard to route find on this, a real thinking mans route. There's a thin flake between bolt 10 and 11, don't pull out on it, just crimp on top of it, might blow and change the route.

70m reaches the ground from the anchor. Sep 11, 2016
GDavis  
Heard good things about this route - when to check it out and backed off before getting to the first bolt. It starts up against a tree off a boulder, the landing is pretty bad and the fall dangerous up to the first bolt. Got one move away and didn't commit, seemed pretty heads up. I'll come back with a stick clip, a diaper and a training bra and give it a go later to see how bad that next move is but didn't feel like stepping up to the plate that day. Apr 11, 2016