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Routes in West Face - Right Side

Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pearly Gate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slab, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Jim Smith, Auther Johnson and M. Holton August 1938
Page Views: 31,164 total, 218/month
Shared By: Dpurf on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Traitor Horn is an area classic, and has a great exposed crux when you pull on to the 'True Horn'!

P1 & 2 - Climb the first 2 pitches of Jensen's Jaunt (5.6) until you can head right just below the headwall to a protruding horn of rock. This is the 'Traitor Horn'. Traverse up and right to a small niche and belay. Try to protect this traverse well for your second, as the traversing moves can be delicate.

P3 - Climb up and over to the right. There will be 2 pitons just before the move onto the 'True Horn' (crux). The crack directly above with the pitons is a different route, and instead move to the right onto the horn. Then up, up, and over to a good belay spot with a tree growing out of a crack. If your second is not strong or is scared to move to the horn, make sure the rope is in the crack and not out away from it. I know this sounds wrong, but if your 2nd falls they will be hanging in air and will be hard to get them back onto the rock.

P4 is long up a low angle slab to the top.

You can also start the climb with Coffin Nail (5.8) or On the Road (5.10c). Also El Camino Real (5.10a) is another do way to go.

Protection

Thin to 2.5 inches

Photos

Left a red size #2, DMM Torque Nut at the top of pitch 2, right next to the horn. Please contact me if you were able to free the lodged piece, I'll pay you in beer. Location: Los Angeles. Thanks! Jul 10, 2017
Meh. The true horn part is kind of weird and contrived. Climbing leading up to it on Coffin Nail is fantastic though. May 16, 2017
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
 
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
 
Jensen's jaunt to Traitor Horn in 3 pitches

Solo/scramble most of the 1st pitch of Jensen's jaunt. Belay when it starts to get pretty vertical. I set up 1st pitch anchors immediately left of the false horn. Guide book states to climb below the false horn in between the flakes, which my partner did. It seemed like a reachy move and a bad swing potential for follower. I ended up climbing over the horn, which seemed a lot easier to prevent the swing. Partner built a belay 15 ft above the crux horn. Since the rope was in that crack, I didn't feel comfortable hopping on the horn and just climbed the crack. Felt like 10a there. From there you can reach the top. Apr 20, 2017
Matt Himmelstein
Orange, California
 
Matt Himmelstein   Orange, California
 
Had a group of 4 do Jensen's to Traitor Horn. I was the only one willing to lead the Horn. We had 2 70M ropes so split into pairs for the first long pitch to the start of Traitor Horn, then I did 30-35M pitch to a nice flat spot above the horns. We pig tailed the second on my rope and then the third was able to tie in and trail the second rope for the last climber. Then we split into pairs again to top out.

I think we could have done it in two pitches with a 70M if I set up a belay between the horns. Jul 6, 2016
steverett
San Diego, CA
steverett   San Diego, CA
Did Jensen's Jaunt, and belayed from the JJ crack where the traverse starts, rather than between the horns like we saw other parties doing. Rope drag isn't an issue, if you place and extend thoughtfully. However, the rope was wedging itself in the crack after the lip, so I had to belay pretty low on the slab.

The beginning of Jensen's is really a scramble, so we did the whole thing as 3 roped pitches. Apr 4, 2016
Anouk Erni
Portland, OR
  5.7+
Anouk Erni   Portland, OR
  5.7+
We linked Coffin Nail to Traitor Horn, then did the last pitch on Jensen's Jaunt, which is more entertaining. The money pitch on Traitor Horn is awesome, and while the crux is in the tight corner before moving up on the horn, it never felt harder than a slightly awkward 5.7. Great moves, great protection, love this climb! Sep 8, 2015
Miguel D
SLC
Miguel D   SLC
Climbed on June 18th. First time here. Finished the route late and had to come down after sundown. Managed to forget my headlamp at the base so we had to descend with only my partner's. Going down with just one hesdlamp wasn't too bad, but the darkeness caused us to get lost on the friction route descent and got to a spot where we couldn't continue to downclimb. We opted for leaving a sling and a wiregate biner tied to a tree so we could rap down. That got us almost all the way down and had to scramble a bit further down to reach the gully. I wish I could specify where exactly, but I don't know how to specify it's location. But I think it's somewhere on the friction route, though we could've gone off route in the darkeness


Moral of the story, if this is your first time here, allow plenty of time to find and descend the friction route Jun 23, 2015
jeffblankman
San Diego, Ca
 
jeffblankman   San Diego, Ca
 
Glad to have finally done this. Linked from Coffin Nail and it was a truly great experience.

We belayed ABOVE the short easy chimney for Coffin Nail and easily made the niche belay past the false horn with a 60m rope. Drag was not bad with good management at the angles: into CN dihedral, over CN roof, Traverse under horn.

I thought the moves through the niche and establishing on the lower part of the horn were stiffer than they appeared, but the the moves off the horn were no sweat. The exposure was great!

If you've got the cojones to solo P1 of Coffin Nail and the short, easy chimney before the CN crack, you can do the whole linkup in two pitches, really, and "get r done" fast! May 25, 2015
delly84 Letts
Golden, Co
 
delly84 Letts   Golden, Co
 
Was able to slot a small nut above the 2nd piton and a small cam above the 1st, put a sliding X on both and i think protected well. Sep 2, 2014
alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.8
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.8
jackhmullen
Oceanside CA
 
jackhmullen   Oceanside CA
 
Bring an extra pair of pants... Even following it I felt like I'd shit mine. May 5, 2013
Tradiban
  5.8 PG13
Tradiban  
  5.8 PG13
It's a little tricky to make the moves right and onto the horn. Biffing it might be ugly. Linking from Coffin Nail is classic. Jan 14, 2012
scottydo
ventura, ca
 
scottydo   ventura, ca
 
Had a blast on this climb. Just remember to place your pro well so your second doesn't have some crazy swinging fall if he takes one. If exposure doesn't bother you then this is a lot of fun. Didn't think that any of the moves onto or off the horn were too bad. Kind of bouldery type moves. Fun stuff! Oct 10, 2009
PumpkinEater
Sacramento
 
PumpkinEater   Sacramento
 
Great "pucker" factor for the grade. One of my first leads and still memorable. Mar 21, 2009
Jesse Davidson
san diego, ca
 
Jesse Davidson   san diego, ca
 
coffin nail approach is nice, but the route itself is nothing special. the horn is cool, sure, but then its over. Mar 17, 2009
This climb often produces epic events for the second. (have seen this happen often over the years much to the entertainment of those below) The leader needs to make sure the rope management takes care of the second.


Make sure the rope runs on the horn side of the crack and can't slide back into it. Belaying shortly after the horn is a good idea.

If it runs in the crack or to climbers left of it a fall by the second will result in either a slam into the corner or a big air swing, lowering, reclimbing and much whining.

Yeah, it's a one move wonder, but premier among them. Do the Coffin Nail approach for full value. Sep 27, 2008
Ryan Kelly
work.
 
Ryan Kelly   work.
 
The exposure is awesome, the moves onto and off of the horn are fun, and it makes for a great photo op... that said, I was a bit disappointed given the four-star rating and hype. There’s only about 20 feet of climbing on the route, albeit a really fun 20 feet, a bit of a traverse before, and 4th class afterwards. Definitely worth doing, but not four-star compared to other routes at Tahquitz. Aug 4, 2008
Fantastic! A must do. Nice introduction to exposed climbing. Test your self on this route if you want to know how well you will react to exposure. The exposed moves are amazing and quickly over. Aug 14, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Finally got up the nerve to lead this one. Passed the P2/3 niche belay and anchored higher up so my partner could anchor in the niche for my run at the crux. Both traverses are delicate and have very few options for pro. Clipped the lost arrow just so I could be on something, anything while I set a cam higher up because the overhanging dihedral really spits you out! The crux was no issue but the exposure!!! I think the true crux is just protecting the horn. And standing up on the horn - my legs were weak! This is a must do for anyone who loves Tahquitz. Traitor Horn is an awesome climb! Jun 12, 2007
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
 
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
 
This is pretty "airy" for it's grade. I was gripped. Awesome! Mar 9, 2007
Followed this route yesterday with my friend Tom who turns sixty on Wednesday. Fell making the move onto the horn the first time, fell twice making the move off the horn. What a kick! Hats off to the fellows who first did this route along time ago! Sep 29, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.8
One of the wildest, most exposed 5.8's I've ever done. The traverse onto the horn and standing up on the horn were exciting and memorable. The crux move off the horn had me sweating too.

My partner was too scared to traverse onto the horn, so she climbed straight up the crack in the back of the alcove. Harder, but a lot more secure! Mar 12, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Name is a pun on the 1931 movie "Trader Horn". Mar 12, 2006