Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Tobin Sorensen, 1975
Page Views: 9,188 total · 55/month
Shared By: Bruce Diffenbaugh on Feb 11, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

This route ascends the left edge/arete of the Open Book dihedral to the alcove below the true horn on desperate palming and smearing moves with two 40+ foot runout sections. The possibility of a fall off the edge of the dihedral is real thing. The climbing past there does not improve much! The run-out from the belay to the alcove is long and exposed. Everyone that has done this climb has a story to tell after. It gets my vote for the most balls-Z route ether side of the valley.

The Turbo Flange variation takes a direct start past a bolt to join the Edge from below. Truly a dynamic line!

Location

Left of the Open Book.

Protection

Bolts

Photos