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Routes in West Face - Right Side

Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pearly Gate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slab, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tobin Sorensen, 1975
Page Views: 6,108 total · 51/month
Shared By: Bruce Diffenbaugh on Feb 11, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route ascends the left edge/arete of the Open Book dihedral to the alcove below the true horn on desperate palming and smearing moves with two 40+ foot runout sections. The possibility of a fall off the edge of the dihedral is real thing. The climbing past there does not improve much! The run-out from the belay to the alcove is long and exposed. Everyone that has done this climb has a story to tell after. It gets my vote for the most balls-Z route ether side of the valley.

The Turbo Flange variation takes a direct start past a bolt to join the Edge from below. Truly a dynamic line!

Location

Left of the Open Book.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Jordan Cannon
Bishop, CA
 
Jordan Cannon   Bishop, CA
 
Second pitch is definitely harder, but not bad after you gain some confidence on the first pitch. The rock quality is not very good between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, but once you get to the edge it improves. May 23, 2016
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
E66a in real grades ;)

Have to disagree with J.Long on this one. The bottom arete is just average blocky granite and doesnt feel to add much (quite typical of the sea cliffs of SW England/Lundy). The purity of line starts above this darker band. Great route finding by Tobin to find the subtle weakness of edges to gain the arete. The moves above are a gripping and sustained 5c/6a. The rock was a bit crumbly as its obviously not done much.

All in all, Great route, but not quite a "masters edge" May 25, 2015
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11a R
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11a R
^^^The moves at the first bolt on the arete on the original line are hard 5.10 as is the climbing directly off the belay on the second pitch. I agree that the runouts on p1 are never harder than low 5.10, but many of the moves are pretty insecure. The climbing off the belay on p2 is hard, runout, and insecure. Aug 23, 2011
There's no reason to do the old Edge. It was done before sticky boots and avoids the entire lower part of the true edge. The Turbo Flange takes the whole enchilada from the ground and should become standard as opposed to traversing in from another route. A little 5.11- down low but once you get past the first run out - to where the Flange connects with Tobin's original edge route, the climbing in never above low 5.10 but there's almost no protection. Don't rip, amigos.

Jul 21, 2011