Type: Trad, 490 ft, 3 pitches
FA: John Mendenhall and Harry Sutherland, September 1947 FFA: Royal Robbins and Don Wilson, 1952
Page Views: 51,322 total · 292/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Feb 3, 2006 with improvements by Sam Cannon and 1 other
Admins: C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This three pitch beauty ascends a very obvious dihedral.

1) The first few moves off the deck are exciting and lead to an enjoyable first belay in a little nook.

2) The second pitch contains the business. You layback a 4" crack for 60+ feet to gain a belay either inside a little cave or right after depending on what gear you have left.

3) Pull the roof out of the alcove if that's where you set your belay, and continue up the dihedral in the left-side crack, much less steep and quite a bit easier than pitches 1 and 2. Eventually cross the slab and continue up to climb the deceptively easy roof on the right side. Top out and hike to the top of Tahquitz on easy 3rd class. Then you can hike out.

Protection

Standard rack with a doubles in the 3" - 4" range. The crack gets too wide for an old # 4 (purple) camalot but you can easily run it a bit to a placement higher up.

Photos