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Routes in (h) Open Book Area

Bibliography T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bookend, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bookmark T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bookworm, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flashback T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glossary, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Green Arch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hedge, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hedgehog S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mechanic's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mikey Screams T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Open Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Torque Wrench T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Turn the Page T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zig Zag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, July 1994
Page Views: 218 total · 19/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Sep 17, 2017
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is one of the most demanding face pitches on Tahquitz, on beautiful rock.

Clip the fist bolt on The Hedge, then climb straight up over a small roof (1.5 inch CD) to a fixed pin. Crank on thin edges (11d) up to a bolt, then continue on very thin edges (11c, stay right) up to a small ledge with another bolt.

From here move down and right, then up a short left-facing corner to a bolt (10a). Climb straight up the black streak to another bolt (10b) then power through the slightly overhanging crux (12b/c) up to another bolt. Climb up and left, joining the top section of The Bookend at its last bolt. A 1-inch CD is useful in the thin crack at the very top to protect the final move up to the anchor (11a).

Protection

7 bolts, 1 fixed pin, 1.5 inch CD, 1 inch CD.

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