Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dick Jones & Glen Dawson, October 1937
Page Views: 8,972 total · 55/month
Shared By: Luke Stefurak on Feb 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This shares the first bit of the Open Book and then traverses right to easier ground. The traverse move to gain the right crack is a bit interesting. Then after setting an anchor, the 2nd pitch asends a line of bulges and chickenheads without much gear. The third pitch traverses and ends in a 4th class grove with a fun topout on HUGE holds!


Standard rack. Expect a bit of excitment on the second pitch. Walk to the top of Taquitz and go down and right for the walk off.


Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Dick Jones' lead of this in tennis shoes and a rope tied round his waist certainly ranks up there. Mar 12, 2006
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
The R section of the second pitch really isn't too bad. The holds are so bomb you hardly think about it. It was a blast to lead! Good pro below and above the runout.

I could not find the bolted anchor atop P2 so I just sunk some gear near the end of the crack. From there, my friend Chris led up and left along a crack that joins with P3 of the Open Book. Apr 8, 2007
Scotty Nelson
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
We did this in 2 pitches, with the second pitch being a full 205 feet (i.e. your belayer might want to be prepared to climb around 5 feet).

This was finishing up and left ala Open Book.

With 2 ropes you can rap back down (2 raps), saving yourself the walkoff, and touching you down near your packs. Apr 30, 2007
  5.8 PG13
  5.8 PG13
The "R" rating for this route doesn't really apply anymore; maybe if there weren't a bolt protecting the crux traverse on p1, or if there weren't sling-able heads on the face-climbing section of p2... All around a very enjoyable route with a cool mix of climbing! Definitely spicy off the ground, though... May 13, 2011
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
  5.8 R
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
  5.8 R
Did the first pitch today and bailed. Belayed up higher just below the fixed piton where the runout starts to the right. Great gear, terrible place to belay. Oct 19, 2011
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
  5.8 R
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
  5.8 R
OK, went back and finished it today.

The second and third pitches can, in fact, be linked with a 60 meter rope if you belay about 10 to 15 feet below the piton/run out start and finish at the anchor chains atop Open Book. We had about 5 feet of extra rope.

BTW, my partner set a piece with an extra long runner about 5 feet above the fixed piton (I think this is the Zig Zag crack) to help mitigate the run out. It didn't make the run out any less scary but... another piece in the chain.

I originally rated this a 9 but in retrospect it truly is an 8--the holds are there, for the most part, but the run out is a real attention-getter and worthy of respect.

So far, my favorite climb and proudest lead. I highly recommend it. Oct 24, 2011
  5.8 R
  5.8 R
A great climb. The traverse in the first pitch is definitely the physical/mental crux. Biffing it will send you flying into the dihedral. The "R" on the second pitch is most certainly run out but just technical 5.6 climbing. No buckets and no gear for a good 30ft so best have your lead hat on. Jan 13, 2012
Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
One can do a direct start about 10- 15 right of the Book. You can place a long runner around a bump, and climb straight up. Not to add confusion to this fine climb, but this was the original 1938 start. May 24, 2013
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
FA: October 1937. Jul 21, 2013
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
Engaging climbing, esp after clipping pin and across the exhilarating P1 traverse, soon rewarded with nice juggy crack up to anchor ledge. Exciting P2 out onto knobby face. Not all the knobby bulges as positive as one might hope, hahaha. As for the one most slingable knob, a slipknot with thin dyneema cinched barely positively in place. Sure, slingable, but to actually stay put catching a sizable fall, prob fairly low chance of that. With modern gear, another marginal pro possible nearby. Better to just not fall.

Afterward, read about some clipping a bolt protecting the P1 traverse, here on MP and elsewhere, circa 2011. Didn't notice one, aside from the bolt along the much lower traverse of Zig Zag. Sep 24, 2013
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+ R
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+ R
The first pitch is stout for 5.8. I think the moves off the deck alone are somewhat committing for a 5.8 grade. The crux of the entire route for me, and perhaps I traversed too low, was moving up the initial 10 ft or so after finishing the traverse and climbing up to where the crack gets a bit knobbier and wider. Pretty thin climbing there for a bit. That being said I thought the first pitch was awesome.

I echo what was said earlier about the R pitch above, it's not bad and the hardest moves are the first few, relatively close to your gear.

A good 5.8 for the confident 5.9/stronger climber. Jun 23, 2014
Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
Rest in Peace Glen.

Thank you for this climb.

Ben... 1937 sorry. Mar 22, 2016
P1 traverse is very delicate, but goes better than your head will tell you if you use the micro flakes. After the traverse you can bump a #4 to protect the chimney. I backed the the old rusty piton up with a .75 at the beginning of the 2nd pitch R section in the event of a 60 - 80' whip. However the climbing is easy and enjoyable, but I wasn't able to see any pro until getting past the bulges. Did this climb easily in two pitches with a 70m. Apr 11, 2018
  5.8 R
  5.8 R
Goes in one pitch with a 70 if you are extending placements and avoid gear in the OB dihedral. There's a bolt to clip if you do opening moves, touch OB, then back right. Don't think this is the OG line though, and has that bolt been there awhile? Jun 9, 2018
Right off the deck there are a lot of very committing moves, and the pro is kind of sparse. The traverse is somewhat heady, it could certainly benefit from a bolt in the middle.

The holds in the runout section are not positive, which makes the runout pretty heady, I did see at least one chopped bolt in the runout, so there was a point when there were bolts. Aug 20, 2018
Tyler Mattix
Flagstaff, AZ
Tyler Mattix   Flagstaff, AZ
Some footage from a venture up Mechanic's Route:

youtube.com/watch?v=mU_qiOM… Jan 29, 2019