Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (h) Open Book Area

Bibliography T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bookend, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bookmark T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bookworm, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flashback T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glossary, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Green Arch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hedge, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hedgehog S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mechanic's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mikey Screams T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Open Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Torque Wrench T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Zig Zag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: TM Herbert and Mark Powell, 1961 FFA: Mark Powell and Bob Kamps, 1967
Page Views: 277 total, 2/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This excellent climb is on the relatively narrow wall to the right of the Open Book. Start with the initial overhang of the Open Book, then move up and right past a bolt, and into a crack system. One or two 5.9 lieback moves are followed by easy climbing, and then a 5.9 move just before the belay (the route joins Mechanic's Route here). When Mechanic's Route branches off and right onto face climbing, continue up the crack. Great finger jamming leads ten or twelve feet up to a crux exit move onto the face. Climb up to a crack above, and on to a belay. Exit to either the right (Mechanic's Route) or left (Open Book).

Protection

standard rack
Tradiban  
 
An underrated climb, take care not to go off route, and the "exit" from the thin seam isn't obvious but surprisingly exciting. Did it in two pitches with a 70m. Dec 22, 2012