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Routes in (h) Open Book Area

Bibliography T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bookend, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bookmark T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bookworm, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flashback T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Glossary, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Green Arch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hedge, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hedgehog S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mechanic's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mikey Screams T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Open Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Torque Wrench T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Turn the Page T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zig Zag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Kevin Powell and Darrel Hensel, July 1993
Page Views: 541 total · 22/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Sep 18, 2016
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

More like a direct start to Mechanics Route this has some sporty moves on a vert face. Start like going to Green Arch but move left to clip a piton then up a narrow face with three bolts. Beware loose flakes, the good holds are solid. Trend into Mechanics Route after the third bolt. We finished on the Flashback 11a slab into the last pitch of Open Book.

Location

In between Mechanics Route and Green Arch,

Protection

Rack

Photos

- No Photos -
Tradiban
  5.10d
Tradiban  
  5.10d
With a fourth bolt (drilled on lead of course) on the face up high this route could safely be independent and lead directly into Mechanics Route. Sep 19, 2016
I did the first ascent of this route along with Kevin Powell, so I have interest in the proposed addition of a bolt.

I don't remember thinking another bolt was necessary at the time, but in fairness it was quite some time ago that we put it up. Where exactly would the bolt be placed? - IF - I remember correctly it seemed that the outside edge of the Green Arch was somehow involved, or close. If that is the case and there is any way a fourth bolt could somehow start becoming any part of the Green Arch I would say adding another bolt is unacceptable.

It may be common to stay entirely in the corner on the Green Arch but it can also be done by getting out on the arĂȘte before stepping back in. I don't think it's acceptable if an additional TW bolt can be clipped while doing this GA variation.

Again, in fairness, I don't remember exact distances or features anymore, just that at the time we must have had a reason for doing what we did.

Provide some additional feedback on my concern about closeness to the Green Arch and we can go from there... Also, where would this join the Mechanics? There wouldn't be any way the bolt could somehow be used on the Mechanics is there? That would be the absolute worst case scenario, altering the Mechanics in any possible way. Sep 19, 2016
Tradiban
  5.10d
Tradiban  
  5.10d
Yes, it would need to be placed off route of GA and placed to keep the climber away from MR on the left too. Basically straight up the center of that face, maybe 15-20 ft from the third bolt. From there straight up into the R and single bolt of Mechanics. Sep 19, 2016
Good enough. The last thing I would want to see is anything that changed a route with the historical significance of the Mechanics, or the Green Arch. But it sounds like they're being taken into account. We don't have a problem with the addition of another bolt that makes TW more independent, as long as it can't be used by the routes around it.

BTW - thanks for saying something first before adding a bolt... Sep 19, 2016
Tradiban
  5.10d
Tradiban  
  5.10d
I will probably never add that bolt, it's just an observation and I wanted to address it hopefully before someone else pops one in. Plenty of great safe climbing all over the mountain and plenty of spots that deserve a replacement bolt before this climb gets one added. Sep 20, 2016
AJ
AJ  
Darrell, kudos on a patient and measured response.

I vote NO for adding a bolt to this (or any) established route to make it safer, more independent, or whatever other rationalization/justification you may come up with. Sep 22, 2016
Tradiban
  5.10d
Tradiban  
  5.10d
That's a pretty extreme reaction AJ. No room for new bolts anywhere? What's your justification for that rationale? Sep 22, 2016
"From there straight up into the R and single bolt of Mechanics."

There is no bolt on the second pitch of Mechanic's. Dick Jones led the pitch in 1937, in tennis shoes, and it was regarded as one of the boldest face pitches in America at the time. I believe Chuck Wilts added a bolt on about the 5th ascent, but it was subsequently chopped, very soon thereafter.

I know of at least one climber that has linked Green Arch to the crux on P2 of Mechanic's Route, and it was, indeed, a rather heady runnout (5.10 R/X), essentially climbing the section of rock being referred to here.


Sep 23, 2016
Tradiban
  5.10d
Tradiban  
  5.10d
Sorry, you are right Bob no bolt on mechanics. Fun climbing through that entire section from Torque Wrench to M but very run out like a solo. The bolt hole is still there on M, could use a nice patch someday. Sep 24, 2016
Murf  
Words matter, Tradoholic.

You said initially "With a fourth bolt (drilled on lead of course).....".

Then you say "I will probably never add that bolt, it's just an observation and I wanted to address it hopefully before someone else pops one in.."

So many things wrong with what you are saying. First, why would you put in a retro-bolt on lead? If you're dumbing the pitch down, don't try to honor it by putting it up on lead.

Secondly, you put the thought out there. In fact, you added the route to arguably the most accessed resource for the area. The whole, "before someone else pops one in" sounds pretty lame: "I would never do it, but I'm gonna say it before someone else mentions it about the route that is pretty rarely done but I felt the need to post and then mention the retro bolt.".

Darrell, as always, is very reasonable (I wouldn't ask Powell!).

But really, for an obscure link-up between an already R route (Mechanics Route) of incredible historical significance, which might impact a signature route of the area (Green Arch), for a route that rarely gets done (Torque Wrench)?

Why would you even bring it up?

TL/DR - Read what AJ wrote! Sep 27, 2016
Tradiban
  5.10d
Tradiban  
  5.10d
Thanks for joining the discussion Murf, allow me to clarify my statement. I think it would be cool to link Torque Wrench directly to the upper face of Mechanics Route. As I understand it TR simply worked into MR lower down into the easy crack but there's a nice sliver of face that is good climbing. However that face would be very "x" rated and adding a bolt might be worth it. AND it's not a retro bolt because that face isn't the original route! Get it?

Regarding "I will probably never add that bolt, it's just an observation and I wanted to address it hopefully before someone else pops one in." I think it's a good idea to put out in the public forum so it can be discussed and possible problems, interfering with nearby routes for example, can be addressed, as it was with Darrel's post.

Try not to be so uptight guys because some youngster will probably come and mess with your routes someday and I wouldn't want you to have a heart attack ;) Oct 1, 2016

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