Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Mark Powell, 1966
Page Views: 512 total · 3/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006 with improvements by Benjamin Chapman
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

"Shit For Brains" lies a short distance right of where the trail going south from Lunch Rock first touches the base of the rock. Four bolts will be seen on the slab above. Climb a debris filled crack on the left side of the slab. At the cracks end move right onto the face and work up and right to a flared hole that takes gear, such as a small Tricam or cam. Continue up the steepening face to a high first bolt. Climb up and left from the bolt over orange rock to more featured rock and a second bolt. Pass a horizontal that takes a 0.5 cam to reach a 3rd bolt. You will climb past four bolts total to a ledge with a pine tree (105) feet. "Shit for Brains" is a rope stretcher, so be careful. It is advisable for the belayer to move up the rocky step to the right in order for the rope to reach the ground, if toproping. Although the runout nature of "Shit For Brains" may not appeal to some, it is a fun endeavor for those wishing to test their face climbing/ friction skills.

Rappel from a tree at the end of the climb.

Protection

Some small gear for the crack below the first bolt.

Photos