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Routes in West Face - Right Side

Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pearly Gate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slab, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Mark Powell, 1966
Page Views: 298 total, 2/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

"Shit For Brains" lies in short distance right of where the trail going south from Lunch Rock first touches the base of the rock. Four bolts will be seen on the slab above. Climb a debris filled crack on the left side of the slab. At the cracks end move right onto the face and work up and right to a flared hole that takes gear. Continue up the steepening face to a high first bolt. Climb up and left from the bolt over orange rock to more featured rock and a second bolt. Pass a horizontal that takes a 0.5 cam to reach a 3rd bolt. You will climb past four bolts total to a ledge with a pine tree (105) feet. "Shit for Brains" is a rope stretcher, so be careful. It is advisable for the belayer to move up the rocky step to the right in order for the rope to reach the ground, if toproping . Although the runout nature of "Shit For Brains" may not appeal to some it is a fun endeavor for those wishing to test their face climbing/ friction skills.

Rappel from a tree at the end of the climb.

Protection

Some small gear for the crack below the first bolt.

Photos

Tony Yeary
Arcadia, Califoria
 
Tony Yeary   Arcadia, Califoria  
 
Just did this route today for the first time in many years. We used a small cam in the pod to protect the friction to the first bolt. Old school, friction and runout face climbing. It's a good pitch. No sap today! Aug 4, 2016
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
Adding to the namesake of this route, often the bottom is splattered in sap. May 21, 2012
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
 
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
 
A #1 Friend fits just right in that pocket and is the key pro. Feb 12, 2008
The crux is pretty simple and nice to make you feel good about yourself. Once you get to the first bolt (one committing move) the rest feels very well protected. The upper face is really easy. Aug 14, 2007
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10b
kind of odd to protect as I recall (pod or pocket), although bolts protect afterwards. Mar 6, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
So-so climbing on it's own, but it can be done as an alternate first pitch to Fingertrip when that route is crowded. Mar 3, 2006