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Routes in West Face - Right Side

Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pearly Gate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slab, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: FA Harry Daley and D. McCelland, August 1958 FFA Bob Kamps and TM Herbert, 1963
Page Views: 1,685 total, 12/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This excellent full-pitch route follows the left side of a huge slab, and ends on Fingertrip. To begin, undercling up and left under a roof, until you reach the outside edge of the slab. Continue liebacking up, with some long runouts, until you reach the top of the slab, and a comfortable belay at a tree.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

steverett
San Diego, CA
5.8+
steverett   San Diego, CA
5.8+
Not R at all. Didn't even check to see if there was gear in the layback sections, easier to run it out regardless. Plenty of good gear at the rests. Sep 18, 2017
Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
 
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA
 
Just did this yesterday few comments. Vogel gives it a 8; Gaines a 9- depending on how good you are with your feet I'd say if your solid with your feet it's a 8+; if your an upper body climber then its' a solid 9 and pumpy. Description is wrong you follow the crack up and left then you go up a "awesome" crack to a 2 bolted rap chain with 70 meter rope. That crack is awesome I wish it went up and up and up. Also I disagree with R rating my friend sewed it up pretty good. Oct 14, 2013
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
You can continue up the corner as a variation to the normal crack finish, but it's a bit harder and slighly more runout than the rest of the route. Also there's a detached block sitting near the top, which you don't need to touch. The rap is about 112 feet from the bolts. May 21, 2012
Chris D
the couch
  5.9 R
Chris D   the couch
  5.9 R
Got back on this on second yesterday after whipping on it on lead a couple of years ago. BURLY.

This is not for the "modern" 5.8 leader, unless that person spends a lot of time honing their lieback skills. The crux is a mandatory lieback to a splitter hand crack. That lieback is steep, maybe fifteen feet, there's no gear, and if you came off you'd get banged up bad if you failed to avoid the little ledge you preview the crux from.

Not sure what to rate this, since it really needs to be thought of in terms of liebacking skills and strength almost exclusively. A really strong bricklayer who never climbed before probably has as good a chance at it as a sport climber whose specialty is crimping in the 11s and 12s. As an upside, the edge is pretty positive where liebacking is required, though at the crux there's nothing but friction for your feet. It's a Bob Kamps/TM Herbert FFA too, so that's pretty cool.

Caveat emptor.

We did find a nice new-ish bail cam below the crux, so there are potential benefits to climbing this route.

Oh yeah, and if you plan to rap from the rap rings at the top of the route to the ground with a 60m rope, expect to downclimb the first 10 feet of the route after you rap. No biggie if you're up for it. May 6, 2012
Stormeh
5.8+ R
Stormeh  
5.8+ R
I mistakenly got on this instead of the desired Fingertrip. *Phew*...rough. The strenuous laybacking with few good rest stances means gear is scarce. I give it a 5.8+ R rating. I know stronger climbers might disagree with me about the R, but this definitely isn't a climber for a novice. It seems to me that many climbers mistake this for Fingertrip and get in over their heads, seeing as how I saw 2 bail pieces on the route when I did it. Probably a good place to booty gear, actually. Dec 16, 2010
Chris D
the couch
  5.9 R
Chris D   the couch
  5.9 R
The route description is incorrect.

There is a dogleg hand crack that heads out onto the face of the slab to the right just above a ledge at the end of the crux lieback.

Take this crack out onto the outside of the slab and up from there. The route does not follow the lieback all the way to the top of the slab as described.

Don't mistake this for Fingertrip. This route starts under a large OAK tree. Fingertrip starts under a large PINE tree. Jul 15, 2010
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
  5.8 PG13
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
  5.8 PG13
The first pitch of this climb starts directly to the left of Fingertrip, in the big left-slanting orange dihedral.

The first pitch, in my opinion, is of better quality as its classic neighbor to the right. The climb involves sustained and somewhat runout laybacking. It is both physically and mentally draining. Half way up the climb there is a huge ledge where you can catch your breath after the first runout crux section. From here, you can contemplate the next section of laybacking. In fact, the runouts on this climb are what make it so memorable: fifteen feet of sustained, hard, burly laybacking to great rests.

Next time Fingertrip is packed, jump on this alternative start. It will probably be free even when theres a line at the base of Fingertrip. You'll be super psyched through the whole thing...

D Jun 6, 2006