Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, August 2007
Page Views: 479 total · 4/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jul 8, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route climbs the arete and overhang left of Pearly Gate and to the right of The Hangover.

Start with the first two pitches of Traitor Horn, belaying just after the traverse that takes you to the base of the alcove.

Make an extended stem to clip a bolt on the left wall, then crank left around the corner up to another bolt and the crux: a big, height dependent move up and left (under 6 Ft. tall you'll probably need to dyno) then easy moves up to the big overhang and a third bolt. Drop down and right around the corner, then move up to a fourth bolt (a left knee-lock facilitates the clip!) and make a 5.10 face move past the roof, up onto an easy slab. There is a knob tie-off for pro here. Belay about 40 feet higher at a block with a mountain mahogany.

Protection

4 bolts, gear to 3 inches.

Photos