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Routes in West Face - Right Side

Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pearly Gate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slab, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bob Gaines Charlie Peterson August 1987, Direct Start Gob Gaines and Charlie Peterson August 1997
Page Views: 901 total · 9/month
Shared By: Murf on Sep 21, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Crimes of Passion climbs parallel to Fingertrip, crosses at the second pitch arch and continues until the eponymous Fingertrip Traverse.

Pitch 1:
Original Start: Startup Fingertrip, but traverse left after about 40 feet.

Direct Start: Start as for The Slab, up and right of the start of Fingertrip. Climb toward a visible bolt on a short headwall. Clipping the bolt/slapping the top of the headwall is an exercise in height, balance, or some combo of both. Pull the mantle, and attempt to avoid "beached whale syndrome". Do the same to the next easier mantle (with a bolt) to join the original start.

The climbing through the next three bolts is for the most part continuous 5.10 climbing, not always with the comfort of a quickdraw in front of your face. You are pretty much out of sight for everyone on the ground, so while your heroics will go unnoticed, sound travels quite well so your histrionics will be.

Pitch 2: Climb up and left of the belay to a bolt, then work the flakes up to the arch (optional belay here). Cross Fingertrip and climb the "upper arch" to a bolt and a baffling slab move to join Fingertrip Traverse. Belay as far up and left as your rope will allow.

Pitch 3: Join the pack train up to Lunch Ledge and beyond. Remember the alternate finish to the right of the "1 Bolt Slab", or be prepared to queue endlessly.

Location

There is a 140' rap from the first belay.

Protection

Normal rack, with perhaps some double in finger sizes.

NOTE: The crux bolt is a 1/4' with a solid looking Leeper hanger. The move is hard and difficult to reverse. While you can rejoin Fingertrip with a bolt TR, your second will be looking a potentially ugly swing into the slab.

Photos

Bob Gaines
  5.11b/c PG13
Bob Gaines  
  5.11b/c PG13
The first pitch has good quality rock, particularly with the direct start.

On the direct start, climb up to a rock spike (runner for pro). Above this is the first bolt. Climb staright up past the bolt (5.10d mantle) or, for an easier (5.10a) variation, move left, up, then back right above the bolt. Climb past 2 more bolts to join the upper slab section of the regular route (1-inch CD here) then climb past 3 more bolts (10+ PG).

For the second pitch you can link Ten Years After, which has excellent rock quality.

The 5.11 crux on the third pitch is flakey (11+).

For a great link-up, climb Crimes of Passion pitch one (with the direct start) to Ten Years After for pitch 2, finishing on Fingertrip. Three out of four stars. Oct 11, 2017
not the best rock on this one Aug 23, 2017
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
On the direct start to P1,
you don't have to go directly past the first bolt.
Straight up past the first bolt is more than 10d.
You need a 1" cam below the bush, where you join the original route, as indicated in the guidebook. May 21, 2012