Avg: 1.4 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Bob Gaines Charlie Peterson August 1987, Direct Start Gob Gaines and Charlie Peterson August 1997|
|Page Views:||1,301 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Murf on Sep 21, 2009|
|Admins:||C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Original Start: Startup Fingertrip, but traverse left after about 40 feet.
Direct Start: Start as for The Slab, up and right of the start of Fingertrip. Climb toward a visible bolt on a short headwall. Clipping the bolt/slapping the top of the headwall is an exercise in height, balance, or some combo of both. Pull the mantle, and attempt to avoid "beached whale syndrome". Do the same to the next easier mantle (with a bolt) to join the original start.
The climbing through the next three bolts is for the most part continuous 5.10 climbing, not always with the comfort of a quickdraw in front of your face. You are pretty much out of sight for everyone on the ground, so while your heroics will go unnoticed, sound travels quite well so your histrionics will be.
Pitch 2: Climb up and left of the belay to a bolt, then work the flakes up to the arch (optional belay here). Cross Fingertrip and climb the "upper arch" to a bolt and a baffling slab move to join Fingertrip Traverse. Belay as far up and left as your rope will allow.
Pitch 3: Join the pack train up to Lunch Ledge and beyond. Remember the alternate finish to the right of the "1 Bolt Slab", or be prepared to queue endlessly.