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Routes in West Face - Right Side

Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pearly Gate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slab, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: (A3) Royal Robbins et. al., 1954, FFA: John Long, Rick Accomazzo, Rob Muir, and Mike Lechlinski, 1978
Page Views: 4,409 total, 49/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jul 15, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

From the second belay of Jenson's Jaunt, climb up and right to a steep left-facing corner with a couple of fixed pins that leads up to the massive overhang. A bolt up and left protects the crux: a huge dynamic move is required.

Protection

The old 1/4 inch bolt that protected the crux was replaced in 2008 with a nice 1/2 inch bolt by Erik Roed.

Photos

"A single dyno move rated 5.13 back in the day?"

Of course, BITD it was only rated 5.12. ;-) Nov 22, 2015
sam.f
Santa Cruz, CA
 
sam.f   Santa Cruz, CA
 
Yea Cole and I did (tried) this thing in maybe 2009?!? I thought the moves getting to the dyno move were fun too and then...yea...huge huck. Like Cole said, I tried multiple times, and toward the end was hitting the lip (if I remember correctly) but that was a helluva swing to hold. I ended up french free dyno'ing and getting through it but I've never seen anyone else on it. Nice work John! Aug 2, 2014
Well I followed my friend, Sam.F, on this route a few years ago...We were all like "A single dyno move rated 5.13 back in the day? Should be no problem for a couple dyno loving gym rats from the new age........."

Psshhhhhhhhhh! Big surprise, shit was hard and neither of could really do it. In the end I even had trouble following and pulling over the lip even while hanging from the hold you would dyno to and pulling on the damn quickdraw just to get over the lip! Was a fun day watching Sam huck for the dyno multiple times on lead at the top of Tahquitz. Way Cool!

Would love to hear about a clean repeat. Jul 24, 2014
ciotti
CA
ciotti   CA
I've sat just under it while hanging in our belay waiting for a slow party in front of us on the Traitor Horn. It looks epic and exposed. I though about going for it after hanging and looking at it for so long. But the party finally got moving and my partner and I didn't know the grade.

Beta? Is that one huge dyno to the rim? Apr 21, 2013
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
John, I've never seen anyone on this. I've seen one party go through Pearly Gate, otherwise all traffic goes through Traitor Horn. Oct 28, 2012
John Long  
 
Does anyone ever climb this thing? Would be interesting to see how it fares up to modern sport climbers, who are very experienced at this kind of movement. Jul 21, 2011