Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: (A3) Royal Robbins et. al., 1954, FFA: John Long, Rick Accomazzo, Rob Muir, and Mike Lechlinski, 1978
Page Views: 4,994 total · 48/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jul 15, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

From the second belay of Jenson's Jaunt, climb up and right to a steep left-facing corner with a couple of fixed pins that leads up to the massive overhang. A bolt up and left protects the crux: a huge dynamic move is required.

Protection

The old 1/4 inch bolt that protected the crux was replaced in 2008 with a nice 1/2 inch bolt by Erik Roed.

Photos

John Long
Venice, CA
 
John Long   Venice, CA
 
Does anyone ever climb this thing? Would be interesting to see how it fares up to modern sport climbers, who are very experienced at this kind of movement. Jul 21, 2011
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
John, I've never seen anyone on this. I've seen one party go through Pearly Gate, otherwise all traffic goes through Traitor Horn. Oct 28, 2012
ciotti
CA
ciotti   CA
I've sat just under it while hanging in our belay waiting for a slow party in front of us on the Traitor Horn. It looks epic and exposed. I though about going for it after hanging and looking at it for so long. But the party finally got moving and my partner and I didn't know the grade.

Beta? Is that one huge dyno to the rim? Apr 21, 2013
Well I followed my friend, Sam.F, on this route a few years ago...We were all like "A single dyno move rated 5.13 back in the day? Should be no problem for a couple dyno loving gym rats from the new age........."

Psshhhhhhhhhh! Big surprise, shit was hard and neither of could really do it. In the end I even had trouble following and pulling over the lip even while hanging from the hold you would dyno to and pulling on the damn quickdraw just to get over the lip! Was a fun day watching Sam huck for the dyno multiple times on lead at the top of Tahquitz. Way Cool!

Would love to hear about a clean repeat. Jul 24, 2014
sam.f
Santa Cruz, CA
 
sam.f   Santa Cruz, CA
 
Yea Cole and I did (tried) this thing in maybe 2009?!? I thought the moves getting to the dyno move were fun too and then...yea...huge huck. Like Cole said, I tried multiple times, and toward the end was hitting the lip (if I remember correctly) but that was a helluva swing to hold. I ended up french free dyno'ing and getting through it but I've never seen anyone else on it. Nice work John! Aug 2, 2014
"A single dyno move rated 5.13 back in the day?"

Of course, BITD it was only rated 5.12. ;-) Nov 22, 2015
John Long
Venice, CA
 
John Long   Venice, CA
 
I never top-roped this before Rob, Mike and others joined me for the 2nd to last try. First try was with Bear Squared. We didn't have a horizontal to beat into the horizontal crack before getting to the bolt, and didn't have a bolt kit either. Next time was with Mike Waugh and we almost had it, but no go. Next time was a mass ascent with Robs et al, but I wasn't totally satisfied with the way that went, so i went back a 4th time with Mari and got it straight through with no falls. This route resembled the bouldering we were doing up at Baldy back in the late 1970s (especially the hand traverses) so it felt familiar to that group, which included Robs. Maybe Mari remembers more. The photo was actually taken after the ascents just mentioned. Some guys were above and offered a top rope to see how it was done and I obliged. But this route was never worked on a TR before we started working on it from the deck. Sep 6, 2018