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Routes in West Face - Right Side

Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pearly Gate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slab, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jack Roberts and John Allen, 1985
Page Views: 1,214 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 9, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A direct finish to El Camino Real. More interesting climbing than joining up with Jensen's Jaunt.

P1: 5.10a? Go straight up the 5.8 finger crack through a bush then stay left. The crux is gaining the next crack system that heads left after the bush. Easier to stay right of the bush and traverse in left when the crack becomes good again. Harder slab to go straight into the next crack from the bush. Stay left on the best climbing and don't rejoin Jensen's Jaunt. Climb a full 55m pitch and belay wherever looks good.

P2: 5.8ish Traverse hard left, following easy climbing and good cracks. There will be a good little bush growing out of a crack and a FAT BOLT painted black on the slab directly above this little bush. 5.8ish slab moves up to the bolt then run it out to the top on easier slab. Another full 55m pitch.

Location

Start at the top of P3 of El Camino Real, right after the classic lieback. From the 3 bolt anchor (2 good, 1 button). Up and left for a pitch, then traverse left and slab climb to the summit.

Protection

thin to 2", long slings

Photos

Tradiban  
 
Did the crux over the bush, got to the slab and saw the rusty 1/4in bolt, no thanks. Contrived to go up the slab anyway. Oct 22, 2013
Two years later I can confidently say that the finish is NOT the Fingertrip Slab! There is a slab between Fingertrip and Coffin Nail that is slightly more difficult than the end of Fingertrip 5.9 R ish and it is painted black. Oct 1, 2012
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
 
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
 
As the photo chris linked indicates, I think we may have gone all the way to the Fingertrip finish. The Vogel guide lists this route very vaguely. Is there any other info about it? Aug 4, 2010
Not even close!

After rereading maybe they did traverse all the way over to Fingertrip,
There isn't anything on that finish that is remotely close to 5.8 though, so it may be a recently placed bolt. May 22, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Is pitch 2 of this perhaps the described in Fingertrip? May 22, 2010