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Routes in West Face - Right Side

Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pearly Gate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slab, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ken Cook and Chuck Parker, 1973
Page Views: 2,676 total, 19/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This two pitch route connects to the upper part of Jensen’s Jaunt. The first pitch (5.9) is a nice warmup for the crux second pitch. It is a very thin lieback in a large dihedral. The crack is too thin for fingers (for most people), so unusual techniques are needed to climb up to the point where you can exit around to the face on the right.

Trivia

When Kenny and I began trying this, I thought of something I had read recently, something like "On the Road, you have to keep going"; and it perfectly described this route. Once you start climbing, you have to keep going.
We were astonished the route had not been climbed yet.
Chauncey (once upon a long time ago, Chuck)

Protection

standard rack, with extra small stoppers

Photos

Tradiban  
 
A green C3 was bomber for the crux and exiting the dihedral at the right point seemed obvious. My first pitch went beyond the first obvious belay ledge and up to a semi hanging belay just below the crux section. Yes, slightly runout after stepping out from the dihedral. Nov 12, 2014
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
Fun and a bit heady! Not quite PG13, definitely want small gear. 000 didn't get used, nor did ballnuts; an offset brassy and the rest of the C3's did get used. Exited at the roof up into the finger crack. Sep 30, 2013
C Miller   CA  
FA was Ken Cook and Chuck Parker, 1973. Aug 15, 2013
Toby Tittle
  5.10c PG13
Toby Tittle  
  5.10c PG13
I exited the dihedral at the top left/roof; same as Coffin Nail. Definitely hard to protect and runout once the seam thins. Purple C3 fit well and felt secure...

Finished up and right through Traitor Horn, and made for a great climb. Jun 24, 2013
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.10+
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.10+
This is a cool route to do and combine it with the Traitor Horn or any of the other finishing routes in the True Horn alcove.Such as Pealy Gate. Feb 12, 2008
I believe that I used down to a #4 stopper when the crack thinned. Nothing really thin. I agree with the PG, you have to make some 5.8 or 5.9 moves 10 feet above some small nuts. Apr 3, 2007
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
 
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
 
I agree about the PG rating. Good gear up until the stance where you move to the face. Felt about 5.9 at the seam above. You wouldn't want to fall here. Oct 11, 2006
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
  5.10c PG13
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
  5.10c PG13
PG13 rating given due to the fact that the crack gets so thin that it doens't take any more gear. At this point you exit the dihedral and climb the face/arete on your right. After 10 or more feet you can place a thin micronut in the seam on the face. Oct 6, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10c
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10c
Real thin pro is necessary for this lead.. Mar 7, 2006