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Routes in West Face - Right Side

Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pearly Gate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slab, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Chuck Wilts, Don Gillespie & Jerry Rosenblatt, September 1946
Page Views: 45,585 total, 319/month
Shared By: Stephanie on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route starts just before you start going back up hill to Open Book.
P1: Climb an awesome 5.7 layback crack to a tree.
P2: Climb over blocks (20') then angle up and left. Angle left 15' before the crack ends. Step around a corner and belay on a little stance below a roof.
P3: Climb over the left side of the roof, and go up to lunch ledge.
P4: Climb up and finish on 5.4 runout friction slab (1 bolt).

Protection

1 set of nuts, 1 set of hexes, 1 each TCUs to #2 cam
Ben Crowell
  5.7
Ben Crowell  
  5.7
I've posted a topo. Comments and corrections would be welcome. 12 hours ago
Sean Cooney
  5.7
Sean Cooney  
  5.7
Beautiful moves in a beautiful location with stellar rock. You can climb from the ledge atop Pitch 1 to Lunch ledge in a single push with an 80m rope with about 10 feet of rope to spare. A beautiful 230'+ of climbing! Put 240cm slings on the gear immediately before & after the traverse left (and 120cm slings on the rest) and the rope drag is hardly noticeable. Jun 25, 2017
Lovely 5.7. The first two pitches were straightforward as long as you follow all the beta and pix on here. The 3rd pitch was ... foresty ... we got a little lost. I thought the traverse on pitch 2 was ... exciting if you like Type-2-squeezing-your-butt-cheeks-together kind of fun :-) Jun 24, 2017
Tradiban
  5.7
Tradiban  
  5.7
Say "arch" one more time. I double dog dare you. May 26, 2017
Rich and Ben
Temecula, CA
 
Rich and Ben   Temecula, CA
 
Make sure you save a 0.3 or 0.4 micro cam to place in the thin crack at the top of the arch, just before you pull up over the arch. The holds just above the arch aren't the best, especially if your arms are pumped from all the undercling holds needed to get you there in the first place. May 26, 2017
Tradiban
  5.7
Tradiban  
  5.7
If you take the left crack near the end of P1 to the bolted anchors there's two good choices to add some more difficulty. Clip a bolt above the bolted belay then go right for some 5.9+ or stay left through 3 bolts at 10b (Part of Crimes of Passion). They both join back up with Fingertrip. Sep 4, 2016
Sean Milburn
Los Angeles, CA
 
Sean Milburn   Los Angeles, CA
 
Just did this today. Great route 1st and 3rd pitch are a little awkward to lead but great. I set up the belay at the wrong spot for 3rd pitch. After getting over the roof keep going up the gully with trees at the last tree go left across a ledge to a huge belay ledge. Aug 25, 2016
Colin Sander Yinzer
Los Angeles
Colin Sander Yinzer   Los Angeles
the large TREE at the base / start of 'fingertrip' has fallen over, (March 2016) It was a sad sight. Probably the crazy dry summer of 2015 and then some snowmelt eating away at the dirt. I think it was already dead but now it is down. It was massive.

I saw a party of two ladies climbing an off-route left-facing dihedral one tree over, (left) of the proper fingertrip start. I asked them what they were on, and they said fingertrip! 'we are in over our heads we think!'. It was a wide ish / off-width and hard to protect thing that looked like 5.8 R/5.9 I told them they needed to move one corner over. The leader was super run-out and they eventually lowered and left three pieces of gear.

They said they started 'next to the big tree, that's what the book said'. Not sure how anyone would make the mistake of choosing to start where they did- but just in case, it starts near the now FALLEN tree. Mar 24, 2016
jeffblankman
San Diego, Ca
 
jeffblankman   San Diego, Ca
 
Did this the 2nd time yesterday and have to second that it is a REALLY enjoyable climb.

Did the "slab" variation at the top this time and really don't see, personally, what the fuss is about. Once at the bolt, it's so easy you could crawl up on hands and knees. I really think there is zero chance of a long fall past the bolt . . . unless you were to choose to do something really weird and stupid. May 25, 2015
James Hermann
Ventura, California
  5.7
James Hermann   Ventura, California
  5.7
Great climbing on a winter day on 2/7/15. Second route for me at Tahquitz. A 'must-do'. Definitely lives up to the hype. Incredible exposure for the grade. Loved the cat-walk on P2. Posting the YouTube of my lead on P2. The mountain is open for climbing so get out there!

youtu.be/ntaG8EcdVRE Feb 21, 2015
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
In an attempt to get into the sun after freezing for three pitches this past Saturday, we skipped lunch ledge by continuing past it on easy terrain just to the right of lunch ledge and belaying at the first nice spot to stop at, which just happened to be right below where the crack/corner of the 5.6 finish begins. Nice!

Got us a little warmth, but I was thinking it would be a great way to skip lunch ledge on a crowded summer day, and the climbing was better than the broken blocks directly above the ledge. If you belay from the traditional start of the third pitch, a 60 meter rope is plenty to go this way. Mar 10, 2014
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
@Yosemitesam, The "beautiful .75 camalot sized hand crack" that you got "suckered" into is actually the original "correct" route to take at the top of the first pitch, so don't feel too bad.

From the old Chuck Wilts guide:

"Where progress to the tree is blocked, ascend a narrow crack which leads diagonally up and left on the smooth face. Traverse back to the fir tree ledge."

This option is actually easier than 5.7. Feb 13, 2014
Only had one day in Tahquitz and decided to do fingertrip. Only people on route all day.
Felt like a beefy 5.7.
On the 1st pitch I got suckered into the beautiful .75 camalot sized hand crack that splits off left just before the top. It ended all too quickly and walking down the ramp back into the corner created rope drag. I felt like I cheated myself by not taking the 5.8 corner. It looked better.
I was not interested in roasting in the sun at a hanging belay so I linked 2 &3 to the optional belay below lunch ledge. Rope drag was not bad with strategically placed gear and long slings. It's also shady and comfy up there.
Thought the 5.0 up to lunch ledge felt more like 5.4. Unless I went the wrong way. Seemed there were multiple options.
Took the 5.4 slab finish. Got the heart pumping a little going to the bolt. It would suck to hit that ledge. Cruiser though after the bolt.
Pretty awesome route. Bad ass dudes in 1946. Jul 1, 2013
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
Hey there! Nate and I went on May 16, 2013 and it was a perfect day of climbing; we swapped leads. This is my 1st time climbing this route and I loved it! Nate finished the 1 bolt slab finish b/c is also my 1st time topping off on that route! I usually prefer the 5.6 fingertip lieback! Jun 5, 2013
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.7
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.7
Can rappel of tree on pitch 1 with 70 meter with only a few feet to spare. Jun 21, 2012
The Ruin-er
CA
  5.7
The Ruin-er   CA
  5.7
loved this route so much i did it twice this week May 15, 2012
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
  5.7
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
  5.7
Climbed this yesterday. Snow at the base but not anywhere on the route. A 60m will get you from the first pitch belay over the arch (next to Fingertip Traverse) with ~10 feet of rope to spare.

I recommend the slab finish, it's an exhilarating lead- pure friction to the bolt! When you reach that horizontal crack right before the slab, try walking the crack rather than hand traversing. It's easier and it feels pretty cool! I wouldn't call this pitch run-out at all, especially if you led the rest of the route. Past the bolt is very easy, turning into 4th class quickly. Mar 11, 2012
Tradiban
  5.7
Tradiban  
  5.7
Classic. I linked from the tree atop the first pitch to lunch ledge with a 70m rope. For the roof crux surmount just right of a tiny tree, then step over the tree to the left and up to easier climbing. Feb 13, 2012
Nick Zmyewski
Newark, Delaware
  5.7
Nick Zmyewski   Newark, Delaware
  5.7
Super fun route, my favorite route in a 3 week trip including stays at J Tree, Yosemite, and Red Rocks. I did do a funky finish to the climb, I saw the bolt on the last pitch, but wasnt sure if that was the way to go(and I dont really like slab). So I thought if I kept going left along the traversing flake I might find something, but then it dead-ended and I ended up doing slab anyway, only my way it was 5.9ish and no bolt. Definitely an eye-catching finish to a great day. Dec 18, 2011
Gabe K
Denver, CO
 
Gabe K   Denver, CO
 
Led this route twice in the past month. First time we went up and left from lunch ledge, following the traversing hand crack past a small bush then up a slabby finish (too far left to use the bolt). Second time I was leading and chose to take a hard right on a thin fin and found the great 5.6 corner to finish. I encourage anyone climbing this to take this much more enjoyable option! Oct 26, 2011
Rob Donnelly
Riverside, CA
 
Rob Donnelly   Riverside, CA
 
I led behind Justin and used him as a route finder. This plan went south when he went off route. I traversed left on p2 but didn't know how far to go. I started climbing up the first left facing corner and thought it too gritty and too thin higher up. I down climbed and traversed left another ~4 ft into the left most left facing corner then belayed on top of some flakes just before the route starts arching left. Oct 10, 2011
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
 
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
 
Having climbed this route 1 year ago, i thought i remembered the route. On P2 I climbed too high, passing the traverse-left. Since the moves up to my position were too thin to comfortably down climb, I made easy moves out right to join Fingertip Traverse. Oct 9, 2011
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7
Best 5.7 ever. Thanks for all the great beta in the comments above. The climb went like clockwork for us but I could see people getting off-route easily if they don't pay attention. Jun 30, 2011
The 5.6 crack variation on P-4 (as mentioned above by Chris Owen) was a blast, and a great way to finish this 4 star climb. Just climb straight up past a few short, and easy blocky sections from the Lunch Ledge, and veer right a few feet, or so to gain the clean, protectable 5.6 crack. Jun 30, 2011
BrendanC
Sherman oaks, ca
  5.7+
BrendanC   Sherman oaks, ca
  5.7+
Classic. Will not disappoint. On PITCH ONE, once you get into the final dihedral leading to the big tree, you will have two options for the last 25 or so feet. 1) Stay in the clean dihedral for an excellent fingers lie-back (5.8), which is the most direct line. OR 2) Take the splitter crack that angles up and left and belay at the bolts or traverse back to the tree across easy slab moves. The '85 Vogel (Red) guide shows the angling crack as the standard line with the dihedral as a variation, but the most current Gaines/Vogel guide makes no distinction, but lists the dihedral finish in the topo as .8 which I agree with completely. Either line is great. The pitch 2 crux --underclinging to the apex in the roof and pulling it-- felt pretty beefy for 5.7 too, but hey it's Tahquitz so... We did the friction finish (left) that I heard was 5.4...Ooookayyy. It's low angle but blank and the bolt is about 20' above the little tree/bush and then it's another 20+' to a little seam you can get something in and at that point it might actually be 5.4. So yeah a bolt and one piece for the final 60-70 feet. Add a couple nice strong gusts of wind and the fantastic exposure and it's quite a finish. Highly recommended. May 30, 2011
Leah B
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Leah B   Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Just did this climb for the third time and seems like every time I do something silly on the first pitch, thought others might want to avoid the same mistake...especially newbies. After the first bit going up there is a tempting continuation of the crack that goes left...don't follow this if you want to stay on route (it's fun and leads over the the climb next door, but that one's a good bit harder than 5.7), instead go straight up over some discontinuous cracks/jugs and up to the rest of the crack. Jun 22, 2010
Tahquitz is not a sport crag. We must assume your feet work, you got up there somehow.

Walk off.

Do the Tobin Sorensen memorial tree swing if you dare.

(Woody told me it existed long before Tobin though) Mar 20, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Or perhaps a zip line back to Humber Park? Apr 5, 2008
Jon Hanlon
SLO
 
Jon Hanlon   SLO
 
Similar to the response to your comments on Piton Pooper, no convenience anchors have been required on Fingertrip since 1946. There's no need to add any now.

Fixed lines and added hardware will likely always "be removed before the next weekend." :) Aug 17, 2007
The third pitch is terrific family fun. Well protected and fun moves. Great for someone who is trying to break into multi-pitch moderates. The exposure is really tame. Get on it. As many years as I have been climbing here, I am surprised how uncrowded it is. Aug 14, 2007
Mark L  
If you want to preserve your sense of adventure dont read this. On the second pitch after the tree, go above tree 30-40' and you'll know when to traverse left by following the yellow band using your feet for a fun airy few moves before you gain a left facing corner. On the third pitch (approaching the roofs), aim for a bush up and left with a big hold 2 feet to its right. May 20, 2007
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
One could say that Fingertrip ends at Lunch Ledge, and many climbs end here. Above there are a couple of variations to finish from the Lunch Ledge terminus, both variations start with the same steep steps behind Lunch Ledge...

The traverses along a very exciting diagonal weakness to clip a bolt then head up a slab (5.4).

The follows a 5.6 crack, and I suppose is a more fitting finale to most of the routes below. Mar 11, 2006
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.7
Outstanding/mega classic route on super quality rock. Mar 6, 2006