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Routes in West Face - Right Side

Acrobat, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angle Iron Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Nail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimes of Passion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dos Equis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Edge, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
El Camino Real T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingergrip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingertip Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fingertrip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hangover, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Jensen's Jaunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Last Judgment T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On the Road T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pearly Gate T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Point Blank T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shit for Brains T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slab, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ten Years After T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toe Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Traitor Horn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown? T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
West Face Grand Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 17,872 total, 124/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This large, clean, right-facing dihedral is to the left of the start to Traitor Horn, and just left of On the Road. Pitch 1 starts with third class scrambling, followed by 5.3 crack climbing. The long second pitch has strenuous hand jamming near the start, an easy finger crack above, and then a crux move over an overhang. The climb finishes on Jensen’s Jaunt.

Protection

extra hand size pieces
Kyle vH
  5.8
Kyle vH  
  5.8
I thought this was very accurate 5.8. There were some hover flies that look and sound like bees, but no true bees or wasps. Long, clean 5.8 crack with just the right number of rests to make it very approachable--and perfect gear placements literally every inch.

I stepped left onto the arete and used the roof rack only with my right hand at the crux roof. Maybe that's why it felt 5.8 not 5.9? I'll try going straight through the roof next time. This is definitely easier in my estimation than FOHR 5.9. 2 days ago
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
5.8? hah! that's a good one. Apr 30, 2017
polloloco
Downey, CA
 
polloloco   Downey, CA
 
Great climb. Be careful of a very loose, long, thin block on the left about 10 ft before you exit the chimney. An unaware person would easily pull as it would be a great jug or step.
No wasps when we did it 6/2016. Jun 20, 2016
Steve_Sil.
Los Angeles, CA
  5.7+
Steve_Sil.   Los Angeles, CA
  5.7+
We started to climb this route on Oct 3rd 2015 and were attacked by bees (wasps?) at the first tree belay. We bailed off as quick as we could but my partner and I still received about 20-30 stings each. It sucked. Be careful. Oct 5, 2015
Anouk Erni
Portland, OR
  5.8+
Anouk Erni   Portland, OR
  5.8+
A very good climb, but it just gets greasier at the first moves above the chimney every time I do it. The crux for me is the jamming before getting to the coffin section. The face is super slick and the corner makes it awkward to properly jam (I'm sure back in the day it was a solid 5.7), so I'd upgrade this first section to a 5.8+. Everything beyond that is fun 5.7. The pull over the roof at the top of the coffin is way easier than implied. Good protection, and a solid finger or hand jam above will help you easily pull that move. Link this route up with Traitor Horn for even more fun! Sep 8, 2015
jeffblankman
San Diego, Ca
 
jeffblankman   San Diego, Ca
 
Great climb w/link to TH. Belay high after the five-nuthin P1 and you can reach the alcove after the false horn with a 60m rope. We did, and drag was not bad w/thoughtful rope management.

W/good crack tech the lower "strenuous" crack section of P2 was a cruise, I thought. The "5.3" section (Vogel Guide) below the lieback was not bad, but stiffer than advertized IMO.

Knowing what I know now--how good the hands and pro are--I'd rest up at the amazing stance at the start of the lieback, then fire up it only placing one piece until the roof, then plug a small cam there and make the move up. May 25, 2015
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Led this years ago and I can confirm that this is pretty stout for the grade. A great route to be sure, just be aware that the climbing is somewhat sustained. I can still remember all these years later how much fun the little roof section was. Have fun. Sep 18, 2014
Chris Bersbach
Arroyo Grande, CA
  5.8
Chris Bersbach   Arroyo Grande, CA
  5.8
Some may find Sam's comment above to be true, although Coffin Nail was my *second* 5.8 gear lead, after Traitor Horn (my partner and I did the first two pitches of Jensen's to TH the day before, then CN to TH that day). It definitely felt stout to me at the time, but the pro is so, SO good that I still think it's a solid, if challenging example of what sustained 5.8 feels like, and therefore a good lead for the emerging, ambitious 5.8 leader. I'm looking forward to going back and doing it again, and expect that it'll feel much more casual, now that we've climbed some of the hill's classic 5.9s.

I *definitely* second (third? fourth?) the notion that Coffin to Traitor makes for a truly incredible 5.8 when linked. Jul 15, 2014
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
As a counterpoint to an opinion above, I think it would be cruel to put someone on this as their first 5.8 lead. Stout for the grade and sustained.

That being said, this combined with Traiter Horn -- HOLY FUQ. Coffin + Horn = maybe the best 5.8 I've ever done. Just superb. Jun 19, 2014
We approached the route using the start to El Camino Real, then up and right past a bolt. Nice extra credit. May 27, 2014
The Ruin-er
CA
  5.8
The Ruin-er   CA
  5.8
did this into traitor horn today, its amazing and 5.8 Apr 8, 2012
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
A classic second pitch. We linked this with Traitor Horn for full value. With a 70m rope I belayed for the 2nd pitch after the first traverse past the "traitor" horn. With long runners rope drag can be avoided easily.

For clarification:
Pitch One: Easy 5.3 to an alcove with a tree.
Pitch Two: 5.8 crack with a nice to hands rest on the left before committing to a nice layback to a good roof pull. Complete the first traverse under the "Traitor Horn" to a belay if linking to the "Traitor Horn" route. 70m rope might be required for this.
Pitch Three: Up the corner a bit from the belay, then traverse right to clip a pin then figure out how to mount the horn. Don't blow the moves onto the horn or you will find your self with a ugly fall. Once standing on the horn. Move over the lip and belay 30ft higher in a wide crack.
Pitch Four: Up and right for a nice friction pitch. Standard friction descent from there. Jan 14, 2012
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
 
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
 
I found the hardest climbing to be near the start of the crack. The lieback dihedral/roof section proved to be very fun and quite solid hands/protection. I agree, a great first 5.8 lead. Aug 8, 2011
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
Well-protected crux on clean rock. This would be a good first 5.8 lead at Tahquitz. Aug 25, 2009
tony grice  
 
The best 5.8 crack on Tahquitz. A must do. Hey crisco I think you were on the arete moves on P.1 of El Camino real. Aug 28, 2007
Climbed outside the wide gully at the beginning. On the face to the left I actually found a few new bolts (is this some 'new' route?), that although runout, were really easy to follow. I was able to rejoin the crack right when it steepens and becomes tight hands for a few moves. I thought the the roof jam crack at the top was fantastic! Used this route to approach "Traitor Horn." Aug 14, 2007
The best way to approach Traitor Horn or Pearly Gates Feb 25, 2006