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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medussa (alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rock Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Jamie Cunningham & Mike Lee 2011
Page Views: 112 total, 5/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 23, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Originally listed in MP as "Unknown 1 - on Saber Slab" and given 5.8+, "The Notches" lists it as 5.8 which isn't much different. I think I'll leave the 5.8+, more because of the 5.6+ - 5.7 PG-13/R approaching the first bolt.


START- About 10-12 feet right of Saber's "groove", at about the "alternate start" described for Saber. There's a bolt about 12-15 feet up [photo].

See also the photo of "Saber Slab" posted to Scepter.

I'd give the opening moves below the bolt 5.6+ to 5.7 PG-13 / R, so you might want to stick clip the bolt.

P1- Face climb up to the bolt (about 5.7 PG-13/R) then on up the the 4inch horizontal (crux). Continue up the crack and then the slab above (bolt) and a 2nd bolt higher up. Continue to the double bolt anchor on the right. 140-150 ft 5.8/5.8+. The slab above the 4inch ledge is about 5.6+ to 5.7- if you get there from Saber.

DESCENT: Rap with 2 ropes or 25 ft bushwhack back to the North Descent Gully.

Note that it is possible to Top Rope this climb (using 2 ropes!) by bushwhacking the 25 ft into the double-bolt anchor.

Location

On the "Saber Slab" between Saber and the North descent gully.

Protection

Std rack - Green (#0.75) Camalot

Photos

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