Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face
|"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c|
|"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c|
|Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Medussa (alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a|
|Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Rock Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X|
|Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a|
|Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft|
|FA:||Jamie Cunningham & Mike Lee 2011|
|Page Views:||112 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Nov 23, 2015|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionOriginally listed in MP as "Unknown 1 - on Saber Slab" and given 5.8+, "The Notches" lists it as 5.8 which isn't much different. I think I'll leave the 5.8+, more because of the 5.6+ - 5.7 PG-13/R approaching the first bolt.
START- About 10-12 feet right of Saber's "groove", at about the "alternate start" described for Saber. There's a bolt about 12-15 feet up [photo].
See also the photo of "Saber Slab" posted to Scepter.
I'd give the opening moves below the bolt 5.6+ to 5.7 PG-13 / R, so you might want to stick clip the bolt.
P1- Face climb up to the bolt (about 5.7 PG-13/R) then on up the the 4inch horizontal (crux). Continue up the crack and then the slab above (bolt) and a 2nd bolt higher up. Continue to the double bolt anchor on the right. 140-150 ft 5.8/5.8+. The slab above the 4inch ledge is about 5.6+ to 5.7- if you get there from Saber.
DESCENT: Rap with 2 ropes or 25 ft bushwhack back to the North Descent Gully.
Note that it is possible to Top Rope this climb (using 2 ropes!) by bushwhacking the 25 ft into the double-bolt anchor.