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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bullit - 2nd Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medussa (1st alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rock Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chuck Woodman 2001
Page Views: 282 total · 10/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 13, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

Originally listed in MP as "Bad Dogs" there's an interesting story about the climb's name in Jon Syke's new guide "The Notches". I met the fellow(s) who put in this climb, but forget his/their name(s).

START- Right of Suzy Q. Just a few feet down hill from the height of land look for a "cut off" path that leads right.(photo)

The climb as described may not be EXACTLY the line of F.A., but is close.

P1 - After a move or two gain a beautiful crack system (good pro, and in August blueberries too!). Follow the crack system(s) up until it peters out below a steep slab and bolt. [Very High Clip] ***[beta] Above the bolt move up and right to a fine ledge with a natural thread in a shallow corner 8 ft above the ledge. 110-125 ft 5.8 ( 5.9?)


P2 - A "four star pitch" Climb the face just left of the protect-able shallow corner that arches right. Climb over the arch near its apex, then up the fine slab (bolts) moving left at the top to the rap anchor at the top of Suzy Q. 100 ft 5.7 / 5.7+
NOTE: Ignore the small angle piton in a flake to the right, that's on Skyline Promenade.

NOTE: It is possible to reach the P1 belay ledge from the top Suzy Q rap station by tension-traversing / penduluming then clipping the rap rope(s) through the top bolt and "dropping" down to the belay ledge.


[***Beta if you want it: I have always stepped down after clipping and climbed left of the bolt (5.8) but think the route may go directly over the bolt at 5.9(?) ]

Protection

Std Rack up to 2.0 (Gold Camalot-size), maybe doubles of 0.5 through 1.0. Medium nuts helpful too.

Photos

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