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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medussa (alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rock Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Not Applicable
Page Views: 181 total, 10/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jul 3, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This is probably the BEST rap line. It can be done in 3 raps with a single 60M rope.

Rap 1 is short (70-80 ft). Rap 2 is essentially down the line of P2 of "Rock Candy" (P2 5.8-5.9) and Rap 2 ends on a wide, flat sandy ledge at the top of P1 of Sea of Green (aka Green Mile) (5.6-5.7) (ledge is shared with end of P1 of Rock Candy). These are two of the most popular climbs in the cliff, so be sure to call out "Rope !" when throwing, and be prepared to wait if someone is leading up. The last rap puts you on the climber's path along the base. Go to climber's right for Saber, climber's left for Bolt-in-the-Sky, Suzy Q, and the Bullit Area.

DIRECTIONS: When the hiking trail comes out of the woods at the top, look down and left for an obvious sandy path/patch. [Photo #1] Walk left to this, then walk 100 feet directly towards Mt Washington (the big Mtn in the distance with buildings and towers on top!)

After 100 ft STOP and look around. [Photo #2] You should see a flat area of rock stained black from run-off from the bushes about 25-30 ft in front of you and to your left. On the horizon (which is only 40-50 ft in front of you) there should be a small wind-swept pine tree beyond, and to the right of, the flat black area, then two much smaller pine trees further right, and then a bush.

Continue walking down and right-ish about 30-40 ft and a second bush will appear to the right of the first bush. [Photo #3] The top anchors are on the slab 5-6 ft right, and 5-6 ft above the base of this second bush. [Photo #5] You may have to actually go as far as the flat flake at Bush #2 to see the bolts themselves. Take Care! ...there's a drop off below!

I usually "gear up" and leave packs, boots etc. in the bushes just above the flat, black area.

Protection

The 3 rap stations are equipped with 3/8" SS double bolt anchors with rings.

Photos

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