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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medussa (alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rock Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 300 ft, Grade II
FA: Ed Webster solo Oct 1986
Page Views: 57 total, 5/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Feb 5, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Only one star because of the relative "unprotectability" of the first pitch, pitches 2 & 3 are, in my opinion, stellar. (See the highly recommended "Bolt in the Sky - Life by the numbers Link Up)

START - (If you wish) about 15-20 ft left of the bolt line of "Bolt in the Sky" (or, a few feet right of where the climber's path from Suzy-Q flattens out.

P1 - Climb the 3 shallow, flaring, lichen cracks for until they end then continue on the face up right to the crack above Bolt-in-the-Sky's P1 double bolt anchor. Belay here, or, as Ed did continue up the crack, layback cracks and face to a bolted anchor above. 5.7+ R/X (?)

Ed's P2 - see P3 of the "Link Up"...here repeated: - From the multi-bolt anchor climb across the slab to the right and enter what feels like a 'semi-slot' on the right outside corner of the arête. (Piton above, back up with small wired nut)

Move/step left, up onto the slab/face ( his 5.8 ?) then up slab/face to nice flakes-with-cracks (medium cams or nuts) “…and when the [flakes] end, climb up and a bit right (5.7-5.8 PG-13)on the sticky slab headed for better holds just left of the exposed arête. …past a bolt [ ¼" now replaced with 3/8"SS] to easier ground and run out the 5.2-5.4 R/X to the top. 145 ft 5.7 - 5.8 PG-13 / 5.3-5.4R A very nice pitch, and (I think) less exposed and 'R-ish' than Webster rated it. Surprising, since (in my opinion) the first pitch of the original Life-by-the-Numbers seems way 'sandbagged' for both the grade and the protection rating in Ed's guidebook!

Protection

Not much on P1 ! Std rack for P2 & 3

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