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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medussa (alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rock Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Cormier & Suzy Linemayer, Sept 1997
Page Views: 270 total, 11/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 8, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A great route! Four stars except for the middle of P1...I really don't trust the tipped out #3 Cam. [Which is why I gave it as 5.8, best be solid at the grade, even if the climbing may only be 5.7+ / 5.8-]

Sometimes climbers leave a rope "fixed" for single strand raps to return to the base after they finished their climb; however, with more top-and-mid-cliff anchors/rap stations appearing this is now less common.

START: at the height-of-land on the climber’s path, about 20-25 ft right of Bullit’s pillar. If you encounter a steep, gravelly descent in the path you've gone to far right.
There is a crack on the right of a 12ft-slab. (Photo) [2013: old piton in the crack, 10ft up. There is a large “home-made” Aluminum hanger on a bolt about 25ft up.]

P1 - Climb the slipperier-than-expected crack [The ancient pin is useless for pro (and might get replaced), but a yellow Alien goes in a foot, or so, below it]. Climb to the bolt, then up right-ish to cracks that lead to an obvious horizontal, flaring crack that grudgingly accepts a blue (#3) Camalot and/or maybe a gold (#2). Climb the 5.6-5.7 face directly above [PG to R depending on how much you trust the tipped-out cam(s) ] or the orange crack to the left. A ledge and a 2nd bolt await above, more face climbing to the cracks and a 3rd bolt and the belay station. 115ft, 5.7+ to 5.8- PG/R? or so.

P2- Climb to the bolt above (via the face or the face-and-arête), move right to surmount the OH (med. Cam placement) and race to the upper anchors (i.e. the rap station) 100ft, 5.6

Protection

Std Rack, plus #3 (Blue) Camalot-sized cam

Photos

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