Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route)
Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Paul Cormier & Suzy Linemayer, Sept 1997|
|Page Views:||279 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Nov 8, 2015|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
DescriptionA great route! Four stars except for the middle of P1...I really don't trust the tipped out #3 Cam. [Which is why I gave it as 5.8, best be solid at the grade, even if the climbing may only be 5.7+ / 5.8-]
Sometimes climbers leave a rope "fixed" for single strand raps to return to the base after they finished their climb; however, with more top-and-mid-cliff anchors/rap stations appearing this is now less common.
START: at the height-of-land on the climbers path, about 20-25 ft right of Bullits pillar. If you encounter a steep, gravelly descent in the path you've gone to far right.
There is a crack on the right of a 12ft-slab. (Photo) [2013: old piton in the crack, 10ft up. There is a large home-made Aluminum hanger on a bolt about 25ft up.]
P1 - Climb the slipperier-than-expected crack [The ancient pin is useless for pro (and might get replaced), but a yellow Alien goes in a foot, or so, below it]. Climb to the bolt, then up right-ish to cracks that lead to an obvious horizontal, flaring crack that grudgingly accepts a blue (#3) Camalot and/or maybe a gold (#2). Climb the 5.6-5.7 face directly above [PG to R depending on how much you trust the tipped-out cam(s) ] or the orange crack to the left. A ledge and a 2nd bolt await above, more face climbing to the cracks and a 3rd bolt and the belay station. 115ft, 5.7+ to 5.8- PG/R? or so.
P2- Climb to the bolt above (via the face or the face-and-arête), move right to surmount the OH (med. Cam placement) and race to the upper anchors (i.e. the rap station) 100ft, 5.6