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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medussa (alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rock Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kirt Winkler, Karen Moffat, Alain & Janot Comeau
Page Views: 139 total, 5/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 13, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

3 Stars if TR-ing the last pitch, or if you're totally solid at 5.10 and up.

Looking at the cliff from Rt 302, this climb climbs the skyline! The leader of the FA of When the Dog Bites said that P1 of Skyline stayed on the crack/slab system slightly right of When the Dog Bites, keeping to the skyline. (DUH!)

START: From the height-of-land (at Suzy Q) drop down the steep path to the base of a mini-buttress. (photo) This is about 30 ft below Suzy Q and 25-30 ft left of the 5-bolt line of Bolt in the Sky.

P1 - Climb the slab/ mini buttress easily for 20 ft to a surprisingly hard, unprotected move over a small overlap (5.6 - 5.7), at which point you are level with the start of When the Dog Bites. From here I'm hazy, but stay right of "Dog Bites" and close to the edge of the vegetated corner system. Gain the ledge and thread-belay mentioned in "Dog Bites". About 130 ft 5.7-5.8??

P2 - From the ledge, start up the shallow corner that arches right, but then traverse right to a small crack with an old piton. Continue moving right to a rounded slab and then directly up this. [Once leaving the pin there are probably 5 or 6 consecutive 5.8+ to 5.9 moves with "lots of "R"", as a leader falling would probably end up on the other side of the huge corner below you.] When the angle eases the grade drops and there's a 1/4" bolt. Continue through some small pine trees to a horizontal crack for a belay, or romp to the very top of the cliff. 120 ft 5.9 R / "X" ?

The final pitch of "Bolt in the Sky" arrives very close to the 5.9 section if Skyline, and every once in a while "Bolt"'s BOLT is removed, presumably by someone thinking someone else has put a bolt into "Skyline."

Protection

P1 Std Rack....P2 2 quickdraws and lots of guts

With careful planning this pitch can be TR'd from gear anchors and a directional.

Photos

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