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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medussa (alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rock Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Unknown (AMC climbers in early days?)
Page Views: 193 total, 8/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 7, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

START: At the left end of a flat area on the trail about 30-40 ft left of the bottom of the North (right) Descent Gully, or about 25 ft right of Sea of Green (aka The Green Mile). There’s a “bottoming groove” that slants rightward as it ascends (Photo) and a clean face to its right with a bolt (start of “Unk Slab#1). The "wind blown pine tree" is your objective for the end of P1.

In my opinion, the opening moves are the crux.

P1 - Climb the groove [Var 1] (crux 5.6 PG-13/R) to where it becomes a crack and then up to a 4” horizontal ledge about 30 ft up. From the horizontal, move left to the base of a hollow flake/shallow-corner [Var 2, Scepter, now highly recommended], do battle with the “small but mighty” pine tree, then up the flake/shallow-corner, then left and up to the big, “wind blown” pine tree. 120 ft 5.6 PG-13/R

Variation #1 Alternately, climb the face 6-8 ft right of the groove (5.5 - 5.6 PG-13/R) for 8-10 ft and move left and up, back into the groove/crack).

P2 - Up the face above the wind-blown pine tree [Var 2] (watch the accumulation of pine needles!) into the arching flake. [Once considered virtually unprotectable, today try #3 or #4 Camalot(s).] WEBSTER: “Layback & face climb the entire length of the flake (“nice 5.6”), passing a small maple tree, then up into an alcove below an overlap. Move right to the end of a four foot wall, [NOTE: at this point a new 2-bolt anchor is a few feet below you.] climb over the wall (avoid he dirty corner to the right) and finish up slabs. 100-120 ft 5.5 - 5.6

Variation 2 - After climbing up a few feet, it is possible to step left (old 1/4" bolt) and intercept The Green Mile.

Protection

Normal Rack, #3 Camalot for upper crack

Photos

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