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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medussa (alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rock Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: N / A
Page Views: 194 total, 7/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Aug 27, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Well..rapping this is "easy 5th" (I guess, technically raps are 6th class) but to climb UP the route (Suzy Q) is about 5.8.

This line Raps the Suzy Q route from a double bolt anchor at the top of the cliff. [see also the Photo "Middle Section of Sugarloaf" posted on the 'home page' for Middle Sugarloaf] I believe two 60m ropes will make it but have never done it that way, I've always used a single 70m and stopped at the mid-station (2 bolts, no rap-station gear) If using the single-rope it must be a 70m for the 2nd rap.

Expect to need to leave a sling & biner(s) on the bolts so as to extend the rap for easy pulling of the ropes.

Sometimes climbers leave a rope "fixed" for single strand raps to return to the base after they finished their climb; however, with more top-and-mid-cliff anchors/rap stations appearing this is less common.

Location

See photo and instruction printed on photo.

Protection

Gear to equalize the dbl bolt anchor at the top, and the mid-station if using a single 70m.

Photos

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