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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bullit - 2nd Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medussa (1st alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rock Candy T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 151 total · 4/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 23, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Originally listed in MP as "Unknown 2 - on Saber Slab" and given a 5.9- PG-13, I'll change the rating to 5.8+ R as listed in Jon Sykes' "The Notches" (FA still unknown) because I've subsequently discovered the "easier" way to the 2nd bolt. The "R" remains since the 2nd bolt is just too-o-o-o high! (Maybe someday someone will tell me the difference between 5.8+ and 5.9- )

START - About 20-25 ft right of Saber, or 10-15 ft right of Unknown #1 below 2 bolts [photo].
Unknown #2 is the first climb on the Saber Slab when walking left from the North Descent Gully.

See also the photo "Saber Slab" posted to Scepter.

Thoughtful climbing to find the easiest route to the 2nd bolt, which is (in my opinion) placed way too high, coupled with maybe the first bolt too low. If you're on really THIN, "5.9 - 5.10 face" you're probably not on the easiest line. Stick clipping the 2nd bolt avoids the potential of groundfall, otherwise PG-13 / R

P1- Face climb past the two bolts to the right end of the 4inch horizontal ledge. Then up the face to a new 3/8" bolt and then an older bolt. Above this you reach a crack [med. sized Cams]

Here the original line may have stepped over the crack and continued up the face on the right as evidenced by an ancient rap anchor on the trees above. [see photo]
A nice finish is to continue on the face left of the crack up to the double bolt anchor. 140-150 ft 5.9- (about 5.7 above the 4 inch ledge)

DESCENT: Rap with 2 ropes or 25 ft bushwhack to the North descent gully.

Note that it is possible to Top Rope this climb (using 2 ropes!)from the top double-bolt anchor.

Location

On the far right of the Saber Slab

Protection

Std rack, draws, med. Cams (0.5 to 1 Camalots)

Photos

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