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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bullit - 2nd Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medussa (1st alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rock Candy T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: P1- Don MacDougal, Chris Talyor, Todd Swain 1976 P2- Todd Swain & Rich Couchon
Page Views: 227 total · 7/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 8, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

START: 25-30 +/- feet down, right, and up from the slab start, below a right-facing corner with a large crack.

"One Star" with either the Variation or with a large Cam.

The pitch, if you don't have a #4 (or maybe even #5) Camalot-sized cam is probably "R/X", since the falling body will encounter much rock.

P1 – Climb the right side of the leaning pillar, [Var] then “scary 5.5 friction” and belay at an anchor under the left end of the prominent overhang/overlap. 70 ft “VERY old school” 5.5R

Variation: At the base of the pillar, step left and climb the left-side arête to the top of the pillar 5.4 PG-13; continue with the “scary” step.

P2 & P3 - See description in the Alternate Slab Start to Bullit.

Protection

Std Rack; include Green & yellow TCU's (Aliens or Camalots) for crack above slab on P1

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