Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: P1- Don MacDougal, Chris Talyor, Todd Swain 1976 P2- Todd Swain & Rich Couchon
Page Views: 232 total · 6/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 8, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

START: 25-30 +/- feet down, right, and up from the slab start, below a right-facing corner with a large crack.

"One Star" with either the Variation or with a large Cam.

The pitch, if you don't have a #4 (or maybe even #5) Camalot-sized cam is probably "R/X", since the falling body will encounter much rock.

P1 – Climb the right side of the leaning pillar, [Var] then “scary 5.5 friction” and belay at an anchor under the left end of the prominent overhang/overlap. 70 ft “VERY old school” 5.5R

Variation: At the base of the pillar, step left and climb the left-side arête to the top of the pillar 5.4 PG-13; continue with the “scary” step.

P2 & P3 - See description in the Alternate Slab Start to Bullit.

Protection

Std Rack; include Green & yellow TCU's (Aliens or Camalots) for crack above slab on P1

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