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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bullit - 2nd Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medussa (1st alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rock Candy T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: John Halupowski and Chris Ellms 5/26/15
Page Views: 635 total · 19/month
Shared By: John Halupowski on Nov 9, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

A 'don't blow it' solo straight up a clean face to the start of Sea of Green's beautiful lower crack and protection. If you follow the white rock and then traverse right to Sea of Green's crack it's 5.9+ and sustained. If you climb more to the right and straight toward the crack it's less sustained and 5.9.
An alert spotter is recommended until you reach the crack in about 35'.

Location

From the bottom of the North Descent Gully walk approx. 75' west, passing the first slab. Start at the base of a clean face 15' or so left of Sea of Green's left-facing corner and 20' right of Steve's Twilight.

Protection

Your confidence until you reach the crack, then medium cams and wires.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9+ X
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9+ X
With the addition of the route "Steve's Twilight", GMDirect can easily be TR'd off the Rock Candy P1 anchors (use a long sling) with a directional off of Steve's Twilight bolt #6. Nice! Sep 28, 2016
Isn’t the crack like 15-20 feet up? That’s more like a highball boulder start. It’s been a while since I was there could be wrong... Aug 4, 2018
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9+ X
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9+ X
John amended the route description with the distance...about 35 ft Aug 6, 2018

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