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Routes in Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face

"Center Cliff Rap Line" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Life by the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Medussa (alternate start to Bullit) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
North (right) End Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Rapier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Rock Candy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Saber Rattler T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Scepter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Sea of Green T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sea of Green Direct Start T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
South (Left) Descent Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Steve's Twilight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
When the Dog Bites T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: John Halupowski and Ben Miller 9/2/16
Page Views: 521 total, 35/month
Shared By: John Halupowski on Sep 3, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Nice well protected face climbing. Consistent at it's grade.

Steve was a close friend that I met in his twilight years. Unfortunately his twilight years were his late 20s. The climb was finished in a beautiful sunset.

Location

From bottom of the North Descent Gully walk approx. 100 feet climbers left passing the first slab. Start at the base of a slab approx. 30 feet climbers left of Sea of Green/Rock Candy's left facing corner start. Rapping Rock Candy from the top of the cliff puts you here as well. A line of bolts go up and right finishing at the Rock Candy pitch 1 anchor.

Protection

7 bolts and a medium cam. Shares 2 bolt rap/ring anchor with P.1 of Rock Candy. What a view!

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7+
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7+
The cam placement is sort of "down, behind" a flake. (Between bolts 5 and 6 ??) Oct 21, 2016
b miller
Jackson, NH
  5.7
b miller   Jackson, NH
  5.7
Well done John. Steve would appreciate the dirt bombs. Sep 11, 2016