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Routes in Wind Tower - S Face

Balls of Fire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Beluga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Blackjack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Diffraction T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Disguise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Futile Laments T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
King's X T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lion, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Lower Triagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Metamorphosis, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muscle Up, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b X
Punter, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rainbow Wall T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
SE Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Scotch and Soda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sheer Terror T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X
Uplift, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Ur-Ine Trouble T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Yellow Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: C. Archer, K. Gotschall, 1993.
Page Views: 441 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 16, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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I list this route as a 170' 5.10 rather than a 100' 5.9, since there is no way to approach it without climbing at least as hard as 5.10. It is best done from the lower crux of King's X (5.10b) as a single pitch anyway. A 60 or 70m rope would be best.

Start with P1 of King's X, traversing out left after the first crux (stand-up move at 1st fixed pin) and head out left towards the old P1 belay of King's X. Proceed further left into the stacked overhanging flakes that create a bulge/roof above. Watching for loose rock, select holds, and protection to pick your way through the bulge and up onto the more vertical face above. Eventually the angle licks back and you climb the rounded arete for nearly half a rope length to the ledge. Moving up and left on the ledge gets you a cleaner, more secure, and comfortable belay.


Start with P1 of King's X and finish on the West face ledge below the base of Left Out.


To do this route, certainly take a set of cams to 4" plus a lot of long slings. There are additional placements available to those who double up on cams 2-4" to avoid a few run-outs, but gear is still somewhat tricky and requires skill and judgment to place. This is NOT a beginner route. As a single pitch, drag was minimal for me with good sling work.


Jason Haas  
I agree the "independent" climbing on this route is 5.9, yet you have to climb 5.10 to get to it, and climbing the route as a single pitch makes sense. Also, it's 200ft almost on the button. We used a 60meter rope, and I tied in and was ready to start simul-climbing just as Tony reached the ledge. Apr 17, 2011