Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: Charlie Fowler & Mike Munger - 1978
Page Views: 1,434 total · 6/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 11, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Balls of Fire is a not oft done face climb squeezed in between Disguise and The Metamorphosis. It probably doesn't get done too often because of it's serious reputation, but there are quite a few solid placements - I would have only called this climb S, but Rossiter and my partner say VS and that seems fair. Gear [definitely] is tricky and the climb is run out, but the fall appears to be pretty clean - moreso than it's neighbors.

Begin about 15' up and left from the [LEFT-Facing, RIGHT-leaning] corner of The Metamorphosis at the first obvious place to pull over the roof (on a lichen-covered jug). Right under this roof is a hidden, bomber gear placement. Pull up to a stance on the lip of the roof, then continue up the face with sparse pro, heading generally straight up, then slightly right to clip the bolt at the optional belay of Metamorphosis. From here, head straight up then cut left before the Ur-ine Trouble corner system. The crux is at an overlap with some downwards-pointing flakes. This is well protected with a few small wires, but they are pumpy to place.

Finally merge with Disguise and belay at the tree. Having done most of the climbs on the upper section of this wall now, The Metamorphosis is the hands-down classic, Scotch & Soda is pretty good Disguise and Balls of Fire are kinda junky.

Protection Suggest change

TCU's or Aliens. Small/Medium Wires. A #1 Camalot.

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