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Routes in Wind Tower - S Face

Balls of Fire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Beluga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Blackjack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Diffraction T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Disguise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Futile Laments T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
King's X T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lion, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Lower Triagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Metamorphosis, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muscle Up, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b X
Punter, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rainbow Wall T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
SE Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Scotch and Soda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sheer Terror T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X
Uplift, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Ur-Ine Trouble T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Yellow Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: S. Wunch, J. Erikson, 1973
Page Views: 598 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 16, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is a reasonably independent variation of Metamorphosis, offering slightly harder and perhaps more runout climbing. Climb the beginning of Balls Of Fire or Metamorphosis to the two bolts shared by those routes, perhaps 10+ meters up those routes. From there climb up and right a few more meters as per Metamorphosis, but then break left on moderate moves to reach the obvious right-facing, right-leaning flake/shallow dihedral that can be seen from anywhere south of the Wind Tower. In the bottom of this flake you can place a single 1.5" cam, (if I recall correctly, but it might have been a 1"). Use a long runner and make your way up the feature (crux, 10b) paralleling the Metamorphosis several meters to the left. The climbing is somewhat pumpy and insecure in a spot or two. When the flake runs out, continue straight up a few moves through a bulge/overhang to reach the ledge above Metamorphosis and continue left to find a belay as per Balls Of Fire or at the tree. Protect your second on the ramp, so that if they fall after removing the crux pro that they don't swing hard left and cut the rope.

Protection

As per Metamorphosis up to the bolts, then launching left and up- I placed only a nut and a 1" or 1.5" 3-cam after that.

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