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Routes in Wind Tower - S Face

Balls of Fire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Beluga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Blackjack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Diffraction T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Disguise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Futile Laments T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
King's X T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lion, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Lower Triagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Metamorphosis, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muscle Up, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b X
Punter, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rainbow Wall T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
SE Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Scotch and Soda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sheer Terror T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X
Uplift, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Ur-Ine Trouble T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Yellow Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Kyle Copeland, Cam John, 1980s?
Page Views: 238 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 6, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

For one of the Eldo "Obscure Tour" routes, this is really quite good. The crux of this climb is the steepest 5.9 I can recall ever climbing in Eldo. It is mostly well protected and is runout only in the easier sections (5.7?) and even then, not horribly so. The opening of King's X is the worst it gets.

Climb up King's X for ~40 feet, to reach the bottom of the overhanging flakes, just before King's X goes up and right into the A-shaped corner. Rather than go up and right, step left, set some good gear, and continue up and left into a large, acute, left-facing dihedral. Go up this a few moves (5.7, S) with a small RP on the right for pro, them a pin back and right (near the arete behind you) to reach a good handcrack though the roof. Pull the roof on great jams and jugs, stemming left to the face or right to the arete as needed. This is the steepest 5.9 around!

Continue up and left to the main arete of the Wind Tower and climb to the ledge contiguous with the top of Boulder Direct, finishing somewhere near the base of West Overhang. The climbing here is a little runout as well, but mostly easy (5.4?)

Protection

A standard Eldo rack -- stoppers, RPs, and a set of cams from very small to 3". Crux #1 (5.10b) pro is a old angle (but good) backed up by a tiny cam. Crux #2 pro (5.9) is a 2.5" cam.

Photos

Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.10- PG13
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.10- PG13
Starting on King's X this makes a really enjoyable 60m pitch to the mid-way ledge on the SW face. Continuing to the summit via Left Out (5.8R) makes for a consistent, sustained, and thoroughly enjoyable three star Wind Tower tour! Feb 17, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8 PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8 PG13
The roof is definitely easier than 5.9. It's 5.8, tops. If you can handle the King's X start, the roof will be no problem. It is fun though, and worth doing. Apr 14, 2010
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
  5.10- PG13
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
  5.10- PG13
Did "Futile LAments" today as the second half of the uplift.

Granted, it's easy, and fun, but there's no way to get to it without doing harder moves than 5.9. It starts off the second pitch of either King's X, the Muscle up, or the Uplift.

[Edit]: you climbed into the roof from the right (King's X) wheras I came in from the left (Uplift) so the bottom is different, Regardless, from the no-hands stemmed stance (below the roof) on up, Super fun and <5.8 Do you agree? Jun 18, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
The 5.9 is the consensus grade of the route.
The 10b is my opinion for the inital crux on King's X.
Perhaps the independant route here (in Rossiter's book) speaks only for the independant climbing and not for what you have to do to get there. Jun 8, 2007
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
  5.10- PG13
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
  5.10- PG13
How can the rating be 5.9 when the description states: crux #1 (5.10b) ?

I'm gonna go try this after work and see what I think myself. Jun 8, 2007