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Routes in Wind Tower - S Face

Balls of Fire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Beluga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Blackjack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Diffraction T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Disguise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Futile Laments T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
King's X T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lion, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Lower Triagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Metamorphosis, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muscle Up, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b X
Punter, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rainbow Wall T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
SE Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Scotch and Soda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sheer Terror T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X
Uplift, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Ur-Ine Trouble T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Yellow Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Pat Ament, Rodger Raubach, & Janice Baker, 1965, FFA: Duncan Ferguson and John Searls, 1974
Page Views: 920 total · 7/month
Shared By: Joshua Merriam on Jun 18, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details


Climb under a low roof with a piton, and up a clean, right-leaning, left-facing ramp with a seam in the back, then over a second overlap. Angle right on easier terrain to a higher, easy roof with a great jam (Futile Laments), and then follow the arete where the south face joins the west face to the large ledge.


The Uplift climbs directly under the arete where the west and south faces of the Wind Tower meet.


A piton in the first roof, tiny TCUs, small nuts, beaks and camhooks above, and shallow but passable #0.5 Camalot out right gets you through the crux.

A ground fall is possible even if the gear holds. Above the overlap, the difficulty eases and many bomber placements ease the mind.


Rodger Raubach
  5.10d X
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10d X
Just as an historical note: this climb was originally done as an A3 route in 1965 by Pat Ament, myself, and Janice Baker. The first FREE ascent was probably done by Duncan Ferguson as the original poster suggests. The aid on this route was very tricky, and I doubt that any single piece placed would have held any kind of fall. It was very serious as an aid route, and I would venture even more so as a free climb. That said, this route probably doesn't warrant the risks involved.... Jan 2, 2012
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
RE: [Tony Bubb]
> How much risk of groundfall was there from the crux?
> How hard did you think the climbing at the groundfall area was?

I felt the crux of the route was the low to mid section between the initial roof, and the second overlap. There are several pro options within that area, which I believed might hold a fall.

After the crux, but before fully establishing above the overlap, I could find no gear, however the moves are <5.9. Jun 19, 2007

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