All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Wind Tower > Wind Tower - S Face

The Muscle Up

Name: The Muscle Up
Rating: 1.8

5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British X

Routes in Wind Tower - S Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Balls of Fire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
	Beluga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Blackjack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Diffraction T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Disguise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Futile Laments T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	King's X T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Lion, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
	Lower Triagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Metamorphosis, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Muscle Up, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b X
	Punter, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Rainbow Wall T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Scotch and Soda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	SE Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
	Sheer Terror T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X
	Uplift, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
	Ur-Ine Trouble T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Yellow Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 50 ft (15 m) Fixed Hardware (2)
FA:	Bob Horan
Page Views:	5,132 total · 27/month
Shared By:	Orphaned on Nov 22, 2006
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

A scary bit of fun if you like short aproaches, strenuous climbing and just carrying two quickdraws. Spookier climbing than you might think to get to the first pin. The crux is clearing the roof after clipping the 2nd of 2 marginal, upside down pins. The old school gang (Horan, Edlinger, Ruckagaber, Sangdahl, Guerin etc.) used a wicked right heel hook to clear the crux roof. The modern gang seems to prefer going for a left hand undercling off the right hand gaston to clear the roof. An undernoticed route, and quite good I think.

Location

The route is just to the left of King's X and climbs up and through the arching 3 foot roof. It starts on a pile of ankle snapper rocks. Maybe a crash pad to get to the first pin? Seriously though, this route is pretty good despite the description, eh.

Protection

The protection is 2 obvious upside down pins (screamer on the 2nd pin is recommended). This route is easiliy toproped from the top of the old 1st pitch of King's X belay (usually fixed).