Type: Trad
FA: Layton Kor, Stan Shepard, 1960.
Page Views: 1,391 total · 6/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

15 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This route is usually used as a rather silly start to The Metamorphosis. It is a 40 foot rising traverse to the left on the south face of [Wind Tower]. I believe [Rossiter] calls this classic, I thought it was pretty lame. The crux comes at the beginning and the rest of the climb checks in at about 5.8 or so and has good holds which gives the route a mellow feel despite the complete lack of pro. In my opinion the route to the left, Diffraction (.10a), is much a much better lead in pitch to routes on the south face, it also has good pro.


No protection.


I have to disagree about this being lame. This is fine excitement, and a wonderful way to get on up to The Metamorphosis. By climbing this up to the bolt with the sling you get two great pitches. Jun 16, 2001
I thought this was a pretty interesting route. The climbing is thought provoking because of the questionable gear. Knowing that it was rated "X" or "VS" I looked for gear everywhere and placed about ten pieces on this short traverse. Of course, only maybe 3 or 4 were any good... :-)

Diffraction is the better choice to get to Metamorphosis. It is better protected, has more interesting climbing, and is much better protected for the second. Sep 13, 2001
Jesse Ryan  
Was able to place a bomber piece mid traverse. Probably knocks seriousness from X to R or so. In the shallow but large pocket I placed a bomber 2.5 tricam (tip was down behind slight lip). Fun line. Jun 10, 2004
Chris Archer
Chris Archer  
Here's a trivia question for all you history buffs. What was the original name of this route? Jun 11, 2004