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Routes in Wind Tower - S Face

Balls of Fire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Beluga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Blackjack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Diffraction T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disguise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Futile Laments T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
King's X T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lion, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Lower Triagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Metamorphosis, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muscle Up, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b X
Punter, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rainbow Wall T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
SE Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Scotch and Soda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sheer Terror T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X
Uplift, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Ur-Ine Trouble T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Yellow Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad
FA: Layton Kor, Stan Shepard, 1960.
Page Views: 1,356 total · 6/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is usually used as a rather silly start to The Metamorphosis. It is a 40 foot rising traverse to the left on the south face of [Wind Tower]. I believe [Rossiter] calls this classic, I thought it was pretty lame. The crux comes at the beginning and the rest of the climb checks in at about 5.8 or so and has good holds which gives the route a mellow feel despite the complete lack of pro. In my opinion the route to the left, Diffraction (.10a), is much a much better lead in pitch to routes on the south face, it also has good pro.

Protection

No protection.

Photos

I have to disagree about this being lame. This is fine excitement, and a wonderful way to get on up to The Metamorphosis. By climbing this up to the bolt with the sling you get two great pitches. Jun 16, 2001
I thought this was a pretty interesting route. The climbing is thought provoking because of the questionable gear. Knowing that it was rated "X" or "VS" I looked for gear everywhere and placed about ten pieces on this short traverse. Of course, only maybe 3 or 4 were any good... :-)

Diffraction is the better choice to get to Metamorphosis. It is better protected, has more interesting climbing, and is much better protected for the second. Sep 13, 2001
Jesse Ryan  
 
Was able to place a bomber piece mid traverse. Probably knocks seriousness from X to R or so. In the shallow but large pocket I placed a bomber 2.5 tricam (tip was down behind slight lip). Fun line. Jun 10, 2004
Chris Archer
  5.9
Chris Archer  
  5.9
Here's a trivia question for all you history buffs. What was the original name of this route? Jun 11, 2004

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