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Routes in Wind Tower - S Face

Balls of Fire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Beluga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Blackjack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Diffraction T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Disguise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Futile Laments T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
King's X T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lion, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Lower Triagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Metamorphosis, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muscle Up, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b X
Punter, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rainbow Wall T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
SE Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Scotch and Soda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Sheer Terror T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X
Uplift, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Ur-Ine Trouble T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Yellow Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Layton Kor
Page Views: 95 total, 0/month
Shared By: Bill Wright on Sep 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is typical of the south face in that it is runout and serious. It doesn't have the beautiful climbing that some of the other routes do. This routes follows the obvious left leaning, slot-type thing that is the most prominent feature on the lower south face.

This route is rated 10a, but is harder and more serious than Metamorphosis (10b). There is serious fall potential on this route. 5.10 moves are required 15 feet out from gear - and not very good gear. Ancient pins protect some of the climbing and they can't be backed up.

This route is unusual and took me a long time to figure out and muster up my courage to complete. It is also serious for the second. I stayed in the slot until near the ramp belay, but did not stay in the entire way. To stay in the slot completely at the end looks to be at least 5.11- and unprotected.

Protection

Bring all the techie gear you have up to #2 Camalot, but don't expect to get much. This route is serious - much more so than the VS-rated Yellow Traverse and much harder.

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david goldstein
  5.10b
david goldstein  
  5.10b
I agree w/ BW that this route is somewhat stiff for its guidebook rating of 10a, but I disagree w/ him that it has terrible pro and completely sucks. The fixed pins, which are Dolemite style relics, can be backed up. In particlular, a #2 RP (red) provides toprope protection for the crux step down. The RP itself can be backed up w/ a not-so-great #5 Camalot. Other gear that can be placed to back up the pins: #2 Friend (so-so), green Alien (pretty good). Some of the pins offer more reassurance if tied off. Also, the second can be well protected by placing a couple of high pieces at the start of the initial Metamorphis corner which is easier to do w/ double ropes.

This short pitch has OK moves and gets a weak one star partly for its engrossing nature but maily because it's a Kor route which possibly has some of his original pins in it. Oct 27, 2003