Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: Layton Kor
Page Views: 797 total · 3/month
Shared By: Bill Wright on Sep 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route is typical of the south face in that it is runout and serious. It doesn't have the beautiful climbing that some of the other routes do. This routes follows the obvious left leaning, slot-type thing that is the most prominent feature on the lower south face.

This route is rated 10a, but is harder and more serious than Metamorphosis (10b). There is serious fall potential on this route. 5.10 moves are required 15 feet out from gear - and not very good gear. Ancient pins protect some of the climbing and they can't be backed up.

This route is unusual and took me a long time to figure out and muster up my courage to complete. It is also serious for the second. I stayed in the slot until near the ramp belay, but did not stay in the entire way. To stay in the slot completely at the end looks to be at least 5.11- and unprotected.

Protection Suggest change

Bring all the techie gear you have up to #2 Camalot, but don't expect to get much. This route is serious - much more so than the VS-rated Yellow Traverse and much harder.

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