Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: [Kyle Copeland and Charlie Fowler]
Page Views: 3,772 total · 15/month
Shared By: Bill Wright on Sep 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route is the best approach route to Metamorphosis, as it is pretty direct and at a similar grade. The climbing is varied and reasonably well protected. The guidebook rates this pitch 10a, but I think the crux move is a bit difficult to onsight, and it took me two tries to redpoint this route, and I normally don't fall on 10a. I've climbed this route five times now. I like it.

It starts near the top of the ramp on the south face, but below the Yellow Traverse. It heads out a small, left-leaning, left-facing dihedral with a small roof at the top (crux). The beta on this roof is to get the left foot as high as possible before trying to step over the roof with the right foot. The holds are not as good as you'd expect.

Protection

This route protects with single units from stoppers to #2 Camalot. There is a variety of ancient fixed gear on this route (copperhead, RURP, pin, fixed nut, bolt) which can and should be backed up. Addendum: The bolt has been updated. Thanks, Steve & Greg!

Photos