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Scotch and Soda
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 2.4 from 17
votes
Routes in Wind Tower - S Face
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Balls of Fire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Beluga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Black Wind T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Blackjack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Diffraction T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disguise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Endless Summer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Futile Laments T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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King's X T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lion, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
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Lower Triagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Metamorphosis, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Muscle Up, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b X |
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Punter, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Rainbow Wall T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Scotch and Soda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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SE Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Sheer Terror T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X |
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Uplift, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Ur-Ine Trouble T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Yellow Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: |
Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
Fixed Hardware
(7) |
| GPS: | 39.9314, -105.283 |
| FA: | FA: Layton Kor & Charles Roskosz, 1962FFA: Jim Erickson & Art Higbee, 1973 |
| Page Views: | 2,330 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Jun 16, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
One or two pitches.
Scotch & Soda feels like The Metamorphosis' big brother, only not quite as nice. Still, it's a good climb with memorable moves, position, and... ahem... *excitement*. Personally I was less scared leading this than I was leading The Metamorphosis for the first time, but that was a year ago. Nevertheless expect significant runouts at 9+/10-.
The climb begins at the apex of the triangle on the south face of the Wind Tower and tackles the obvious A-shaped roof directly. Begin by clipping a piton and performing some very awkward moves to get situated on the polished ramp above the triangle. Once you've turned around on your hands and knees enough times to realize that there's just no easy way, perform a committing stand-up move using an undercling. From this position, you can place a solid yellow Alien or equivalent over your head to protect the next few moves. Climb up into the roof to a good stance with good gear (fixed wires, green Alien at lip), and decipher the roof sequence (hint: the easiest way is NOT the most obvious). This is the hardest move on the route - checking in at about 11b. Follow easier terrain up to a belay at a two-bolt anchor.
Just above the belay is a modern bolt; clip this and head left to a slung stopper and a bad bolt (do not go right towards the two pitons on bulging rock - this is Deutsch Sturheit, 11b VS). Paralleling The Metamorphosis, run it out for about 20' on 10- past another two-bolt anchor and yet another modern bolt. This bolt protects some fun, difficult moves - positive holds but steep rock! Continue up and climb either a) left to join The Metamorphosis just above its 5.9 mantle (requires more crawling on polished rock) or b) head straight up on fresh terrain (requires climbing on lichen and somewhat crumbly rock).
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