Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: J. Stuberg, M. Brooks, 1980.
Page Views: 103 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 16, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

I don't know if it merits a star, but it isn't bad enough to get a bomb, so I've opted to give it one star... but wouldn't bother doing it again. It's not a bad route, it's just not a good one.

Start on the ground about 30 meters East of Diffraction, looking up to the trees at the base of the South Chimney; walking further East to look up will make this target most visible. Go back West to directly South of/below the trees and look up at a short and shallow, discontinuous, grassy right-facing corner. Climb up to this from the left, place a good purple Camalot, do a crux move, then work out and right, then up and left to a ramp. There will be a few points of protection total, and they may be questionable. Expect a runout. Climb up increasingly easier rock to reach the trees and sling the left one for a belay. To retreat, rap off of the tree or scramble off down and East on a dirty but mellow ramp. Rapping off of the tree is never a great idea, but this route sees almost no traffic and I don't expect it would impact the tree, even over time.

Location

Down and right of the better known routes on the South Face of the Wind Tower lies the South Chimney, which starts 70' up a ramp. There are 2 trees, one of which is very small at the entry to the chimney, 70' off of the ground. This route starts due South of that, climbs a few moved into a short and shallow, right-facing corner (#0.5 'purple' Camalot) then pulls an awkward crux move before running it out on wandering terrain to eventually reach the trees.

Protection

A single, solid #0.5 Camalot before the crux, then maybe a piece or two wiggled in here or there before the top anchor. This is certainly rated R.

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