| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9314, -105.283 |
| FA: | J. Stuberg, M. Brooks, 1980. |
| Page Views: | 788 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 16, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
I don't know if it merits a star, but it isn't bad enough to get a bomb, so I've opted to give it one star... but wouldn't bother doing it again. It's not a bad route, it's just not a good one.
Start on the ground about 30 meters East of Diffraction, looking up to the trees at the base of the South Chimney; walking further East to look up will make this target most visible. Go back West to directly South of/below the trees and look up at a short and shallow, discontinuous, grassy right-facing corner. Climb up to this from the left, place a good purple Camalot, do a crux move, then work out and right, then up and left to a ramp. There will be a few points of protection total, and they may be questionable. Expect a runout. Climb up increasingly easier rock to reach the trees and sling the left one for a belay. To retreat, rap off of the tree or scramble off down and East on a dirty but mellow ramp. Rapping off of the tree is never a great idea, but this route sees almost no traffic and I don't expect it would impact the tree, even over time.
Location
Down and right of the better known routes on the South Face of the Wind Tower lies the South Chimney, which starts 70' up a ramp. There are 2 trees, one of which is very small at the entry to the chimney, 70' off of the ground. This route starts due South of that, climbs a few moved into a short and shallow, right-facing corner (#0.5 'purple' Camalot) then pulls an awkward crux move before running it out on wandering terrain to eventually reach the trees.



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