Type: Trad
FA: Andy Donson, 2000
Page Views: 6,355 total · 28/month
Shared By: Steve Levin on Aug 21, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The Lion climbs the blunt, improbable arete which forms the left side of the Rainbow Wall.

Begin about 15 feet right of King's X and climb directly up flakes and small corners (5.11s) to a short slab and a good runner. Move up and slightly right to a mantle which gets one established on the right side of the arete. Now lieback up and left via insecure, 5.12 barndoor moves to a sloping "jug" and better holds on the arete. Climb directly up the arete, hard 5.9 with a 5.10a move at the very end. Don't bail into King's X from above the crux. The last good gear is cam just below the start of the difficulties.

This climb is easily toproped from the intermediate anchors on King's X. It was established after toprope preview.

Protection

Sparse, creative gear on the initial 5.11 climbing. There is a runner around a flake just before moving up and right to initiate the crux at an overlap, and a bomber 2 Camalot at the overlap. Consider double rope technique. Some people now climb left on Black Wind to place a 4" cam, then climb back right to rejoin the route.

Photos