Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
FA: | Cleveland McCarty, Bill Becker, Ward Koeberle, Ted Koeberle (1957) |
Page Views: | 2,604 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | fossana on Mar 6, 2012 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
I was looking for quick lunchtime diversion and noticed the SE Chimney in Levin's guide. I wanted something new and figured the W Face would be busy anyway. When I saw that Levin had labeled this a 2-star adventure route, that was good enough for me. I didn't find the route overly chossy, slick, or dirty (by Eldo standards), although it was licheny due to minimal traffic. As a bonus, it tops out on the summit of Wind Tower.
WARNING: Watch for poison ivy in the warmer months.
Route Description
Scramble to the top of the left-leaning ramp.
P1 (5.5, 70')
Climb the huecoed chimney to the top.
P2 (5.5 R, 140')
From the top of the chimney, make some exposed moves out right around the corner until you can start heading up the leftward-trending trough/ramp. Continue until you reach a ledge with a tree.
P3 (5.0, 150')
Head up featured slabs along the SE rib until you reach the more vertical final summit wall.
P4 (5.2' 100')
Head right up the head wall to gain the ridgeline, then on to the summit.
Notes: there are many ways to go up the head wall at a similarly easy grade.
WARNING: Watch for poison ivy in the warmer months.
Route Description
Scramble to the top of the left-leaning ramp.
P1 (5.5, 70')
Climb the huecoed chimney to the top.
P2 (5.5 R, 140')
From the top of the chimney, make some exposed moves out right around the corner until you can start heading up the leftward-trending trough/ramp. Continue until you reach a ledge with a tree.
P3 (5.0, 150')
Head up featured slabs along the SE rib until you reach the more vertical final summit wall.
P4 (5.2' 100')
Head right up the head wall to gain the ridgeline, then on to the summit.
Notes: there are many ways to go up the head wall at a similarly easy grade.
Location
Approach
Cross the bridge after the entrance kiosk and follow the trail downstream (NE) along the base of Wind Tower. Immediately after the bouldering zone look for a leftward-trending ramp that leads to a prominent chimney. If you round the corner and can see the gully between Wind Tower and Rotwand, you've gone too far.
Descent
Follow slabs north on the east side of summit ridge. Look for a notch to the west just after the rusty cable. Rap or down climb (5.4) to the trail.
Cross the bridge after the entrance kiosk and follow the trail downstream (NE) along the base of Wind Tower. Immediately after the bouldering zone look for a leftward-trending ramp that leads to a prominent chimney. If you round the corner and can see the gully between Wind Tower and Rotwand, you've gone too far.
Descent
Follow slabs north on the east side of summit ridge. Look for a notch to the west just after the rusty cable. Rap or down climb (5.4) to the trail.
Protection
I was soloing so not sure about gear.
As of Mar. 2012, there was one old fixed pin on P2 and some sun-bleached slings at the top of the chimney. Otherwise, there is no fixed pro.
Per Jay Eggleston: a standard rack up to a #4 Camalot.
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