Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Jim Erickson, 1978
Page Views: 567 total · 2/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 15, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Start this route from the right-hand side of the south face of the Lower Triangle (not on the ramp). You basically head up nebulous terrain for about 25 feet until you get to the obvious left-leaning hand crack. This crack peters out near the top of the triangle save for a little pod that allows some decent finger locks. The crux is pulling over onto the apex.

I ran this together with the Yellow Traverse to create a pitch Rossiter calls "Xanthomorphosis." Interestingly, he rates Xanthomorposis 5.10b S, but the Lower Triangle 9+ and the Yellow Traverse 9- VS (I guess the sum is greater than the parts in terms of difficulty, but not severity?). Personally I'd call the combination solid 5.9, and S for the potential ankle spraining/breaking falls that could occur on the Yellow Traverse if you blow the crux or the moves shortly thereafter.

Protection

I believe I used a #0.75 Camalot, a #1 Camalot, and a #0.5 Camalot, in that order. Overall, the pro is satisfactory, and there's certainly room to place more than what I listed.

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