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Routes in Wind Tower - S Face
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Balls of Fire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Beluga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Blackjack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Diffraction T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disguise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Futile Laments T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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King's X T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lion, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
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Lower Triagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Metamorphosis, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Muscle Up, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b X |
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Punter, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Rainbow Wall T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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SE Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Scotch and Soda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Sheer Terror T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X |
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Uplift, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Ur-Ine Trouble T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Yellow Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: |
Trad, 2 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(8) |
| FA: | Kor/Dalke, '66?, FFA Cox/Sibley, '71 (P1: FFA - Kevin Donald and Jim Erickson, 1970) |
| Page Views: | 5,451 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | slevin on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures
Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Hidden in the trees on the lower-left of the Wind Tower S Face, King's X presents bizarre, body-English climbing with some hefty stemming...pure Eldorado. The line is rather obvious, following the weakness between overhangs on the lower left of the South Face and leading to a large V-slot roof.
Climb easily past a flake to a strange 5.10 bulge (fixed pin, wire placement), stepping left at the bulge. There is a hidden fixed pin after the bulge to protect the second- a thin runner can be threaded through the eye. Move up and left on easier climbing to a downward pointed flake (optional belay). Climb up and right on flakes leading into the roof slot. There are some rusty fixed pins if you want to clip them, a wired nut placement or two, and an inobvious 2" cam placement. Launch into the crux, a short sequential hand switch leading to "no-hands" stemming (good gear). At the apex of the roof there is often a fixed wire. Be extra careful to avoid getting your rope jammed in the constriction at the roof apex. Swing around onto easier ground and belay 15 feet higher at a squirrelly anchor, or continue to the ramp ledge 40 feet above.
This can be led in one pitch, but you will need to use long slings, and perhaps step back and unclip from the intermediate anchor (if you clipped it). A variation (FA unknown) climbs straight up after the initial bulge, bypassing the intermediate anchor entirely, and heads directly into the crux slot. This is about 5.9 or so, good climbing, but the rock is a bit hollow sounding and difficult to protect. With a 50m rope you can lower off the squirrelly anchor above the crux. There is no fixed anchor at the top of the pitch. Continue with Metamorphosis by downclimbing a bit right, or turn the corner left and downclimb or rap the West Face. Afternoon shade in summer; a bit frosty down by the creek in mid-winter. Once considered a testpiece and a good trainer for the 4th pitch of the Edge.
Climb easily past a flake to a strange 5.10 bulge (fixed pin, wire placement), stepping left at the bulge. There is a hidden fixed pin after the bulge to protect the second- a thin runner can be threaded through the eye. Move up and left on easier climbing to a downward pointed flake (optional belay). Climb up and right on flakes leading into the roof slot. There are some rusty fixed pins if you want to clip them, a wired nut placement or two, and an inobvious 2" cam placement. Launch into the crux, a short sequential hand switch leading to "no-hands" stemming (good gear). At the apex of the roof there is often a fixed wire. Be extra careful to avoid getting your rope jammed in the constriction at the roof apex. Swing around onto easier ground and belay 15 feet higher at a squirrelly anchor, or continue to the ramp ledge 40 feet above.
This can be led in one pitch, but you will need to use long slings, and perhaps step back and unclip from the intermediate anchor (if you clipped it). A variation (FA unknown) climbs straight up after the initial bulge, bypassing the intermediate anchor entirely, and heads directly into the crux slot. This is about 5.9 or so, good climbing, but the rock is a bit hollow sounding and difficult to protect. With a 50m rope you can lower off the squirrelly anchor above the crux. There is no fixed anchor at the top of the pitch. Continue with Metamorphosis by downclimbing a bit right, or turn the corner left and downclimb or rap the West Face. Afternoon shade in summer; a bit frosty down by the creek in mid-winter. Once considered a testpiece and a good trainer for the 4th pitch of the Edge.
Around Boulder, CO
Around Boulder, CO
I think this route depends greatly upon height and flexibility. I found myself a nearly-no-hands rest in the middle of the so-called crux, but then again, I was also nearly doing the splits for both that rest and for upward progress. It was still hard, so I figure a 5'6" climber has a nasty surprise coming if leading this climb.
King's X is to 5.10d what the Green Spur is to 5.9+. The grade seems right, but you have to see the moves and be tall enough to do them too. Jun 24, 2002
Golden, CO
In the specific case of King's X, when the pin goes I think it should stay out. The fixed nut with the epoxied biner looks like it will be there for the long haul and the fixed nuts above the pin seem pretty good too. But, if there was a bolt there I'd sure clip it. Nov 5, 2003
Fort Collins, CO
There were two cruxes for me. The bottom "10c" move, which (see Josh's beta) I did by getting the left foot real high and popping for an edge, and at the fixed pin with the link. Starting to burn there and almost gave up. You have to get your right foot out right and shoulder into the corner. Then you can relax.
The fixed anchor is there as of today. A good pin, a good thread, and a big copperhead. Good webbing, 2 rings. Mar 28, 2004
Fort Collins, CO
[FFA Ron] Cox called this an "intellectual climb," and leaders with cerebral deficiencies often abdicate. Pitch two offers a series of puzzling, complicated moves and bizarre rests which must be forged into a unified lead. A bit of poor rock in no way debases the majesty and gratification this route submits. Mar 28, 2004
Grand Junction, CO
Boulder, Colorado
Tucson
Boulder, Colorado
Boulder
Arvada
Innsbruck, AT
Colorado Springs