Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Table Rock

Alternate Reality T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Tears T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cave Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Center Stage T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Champ's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Consolation Prize S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cool-down route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cornsnake Crack T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crackerjack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crushed Velvet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Devil’s Cellar Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ellie Raynolds Memorial Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excess Reality T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Field's Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fresh Garbage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging High T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Helmet Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Helmet Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobble and Gobble T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hobbling Hobbit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Honeymoon, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
ICU T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indecent exposure T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Irish Stout T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Iron Maiden T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jim Dandy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Junior's Last Laugh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Just Say Moo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
K-Mart Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lateral Inhibition T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
My Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peek-a-Boo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peterbuilt S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Refrain T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rip Van Winkle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Second Stanza T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sideshow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Skip to My Lou T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slippin' into Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Solar Plexus T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tall Climb to Be Good On T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tankslapper S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trundler, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Pitch T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Warm Up Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Waste A Bit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
What's Up Doc? T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wooly Aphid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 4 pitches
FA: John Lawrence, Chuck Sproull - 1968. FFA: Bob Mitchell, Steve Longenecker, Roy Davis - 1970
Page Views: 5,815 total, 53/month
Shared By: Sam Adams on Oct 24, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


43 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Funky opening moves into large corner and stacked overhangs.

P1 - Climb a left-facing flake to a ledge. 5.6, 50'
P2 - Continue up a wide corner to a belay stance below a roof. 5.7, 70'
P3 - Move up left to a notch in the roof; pull the roof and continue up and right to the tree ledge of My Route. 5.8+, 60'
P4 - Finish on the last pitch of My Route. 5.4, 40'

Location

North side of Table Rock; starts on a ledge at the top of a gully about 200' right of Cave Route.

Protection

Standard Table Rock rack; some big gear is needed on P2.

Photos

Andy C. Miller
Johnson City, TN
  5.9
Andy C. Miller   Johnson City, TN
  5.9
P1 is a lot fun until getting onto the ledge; it turns into a lichen covered rhododendron fight. P2 can be relatively tricky with gear at first, but an orange metolius reduced the runout before working into the dihedral/chimney feature. The holds for the P3 crux are all there and it protected exceptionally well with a red metolius. Fun, airy roof. A bit more my style than White Lightning, and if not for the dirty start, I would consider it every bit as classic. 1 day ago
All the comments above are right on.... even the one about it being a urine/turd-fest. It's dirty, but there are some great sections of climbing. The major problem is the vegetation on P1. Giant shrub in the way, and a huge tree. There are some slime/seepage issues on P3 as well, but it's manageable. The route needs more traffic I suppose. Another problem is rope drag. It was really bad on P1 and on P3 due to zig-zagging and traversing. Overall kind of a weird, adventurous climb that's worth doing once. Here's my grade impression:

P1- 5.7 (bring big size gear, it's harder than it looks.)
P2- 5.7 (really fun, steep corner. Pro was not always obvious. Thoughtful lead.)
P3- 5.8 (dramatic move, pretty hard but not ridiculous, with very good pro. Fantastic setting! Bad rope drag issues going up and left. I should have extended the pro under the roof.)

Getting down was annoying. To avoid going up the next 5.4 pitch, we rappelled down My Route on bolts. Was ridiculous. May 28, 2017
Rick Carpenter
Kenai, AK
  5.8-
Rick Carpenter   Kenai, AK
  5.8-
This is literally a urine soaked turd of a climb covered in bird feces. The only reason anyone should have to be under this one is to start "on misty edge" May 25, 2017
Adam Fleming
Moab, Utah
  5.8+
Adam Fleming   Moab, Utah
  5.8+
p1 - There's a slightly sketchy move where you have to move from the left of a large block, to face climbing it, to standing on it. Definitely heady for a 5.6 leader, but the jugs are there.

p2 - The money pitch! Great jams and stemming. There's even a no-hands rest! Keep going after you exit the dihedral and stay right, you'll find a trustworthy piton where you can make your anchor.

p3 - A one move wonder. Other commenters have talked about the questionable fixed pin, but there's a solid placement (#.4 if I remember correctly) right next to it, so nothing to worry about. The move is a committing one, but really isn't that physically difficult (5.8+ for sure) since your foot is solid and there's jugs to be found. Careful pulling on the further jugs; there's a large LOOSE BLOCK that moves slightly when you grab/stand on it! It's big enough that it'll probably stay put, but I didn't like relying completely on it. Still, not the most comforting thing to feel after you just pulled that move.

p4 - Smooth sailing on My Route. Mar 19, 2016
Curtis Baird
  5.10a PG13
Curtis Baird  
  5.10a PG13
This route is definitely sandbagged. Both the first and second pitches felt 5.8 to me and the third pitch crux felt like a solid 5.10a roof. Funky moves with interesting climbing on each pitch. Larger pieces can be used on P1 and P2 but are not necessary if you don't mind a bit of runout. There are two fixed nuts at the P1 belay. Overall this is a great route but not for someone who is just starting to lead 5.8s. All trad so difficult to rap if you don't want to continue. If your comfortable with leading some weird moves and a awesome roof it's worth doing! May 23, 2015
Jackson vermeulen  
  5.9
I agree that the 3rd pitch roof is sandbagged at 5.8+, but once you find the right holds it's not too bad. All the other moves felt significantly easier.

I linked the 2nd and 3rd pitches for one excellent long pitch of corner and roof climbing with great exposure. Double ropes were very nice for this as rope drag is definitely an issue. Apr 6, 2015
Rick Carpenter
Kenai, AK
  5.8-
Rick Carpenter   Kenai, AK
  5.8-
hahaha yeah this is not 5.8+! Still a fun-ish route, I'd start on mistys edge but why not finish on it as well. Second is a very fun lead w the direct start though. Aug 2, 2013
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
You can also do the first pitch of On Misty's Edge (5.9 P1) to the P1 ledge of Second Stanza. This is a much more aesthetic start, but harder. Takes better pro than the normal P1. This starts just to the right of Second Stanza in a shallow left facing corner. Aug 29, 2011
J-Wright  
 
Climbed 5/1/2011. Linked #1&2 easily with a 70m. Had a blast - each pitch seems stiff for it's grade. Fixed pin still in situ at p3 crux, but I wouldn't (didn't) bother clipping it. My fav route @ table so far. May 2, 2011
ziggy  
good route. 1st pitch felt as hard as the second. Make sure you are up for the task before tackling the first pitch, definitely some no-fall zones up there (maybe not ground fall, but an ugly fall all the same). The fixed gear that protects the crux on pitch 3 seems sketchy, I would back it up. Nov 17, 2009
Coz Teplitz
Watertown, MA
 
Coz Teplitz   Watertown, MA
 
I disagree that this is better than White Lightning. Pitches 1 and 3 feature awkward, often dirty climbing, the last pitch is really just the last pitch of My Route, and, as you said, the crux move is way harder than 5.8, making the route inconsistent. White Lightning, to my mind, has interesting moves all the way until you start the traverse on P2, and has rock of generally better quality.

Acknowledging that every person will be attracted to different things in routes, I'll say this: if you climb 5.8, climb both and decide yourself. Jun 15, 2009
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
If you can ignore the sandbag, this is the best multi at Table Rock. Each pitch is so unique with good pro. All of the pitches are exciting and worth doing. Much better than its neighbor White Lightning. Jun 8, 2009