Avg: 2.9 from 81 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Mike Fischesser, Zachary Lesch-Huie - 1999|
|Page Views:||10,594 total · 61/month|
|Shared By:||Coz Teplitz on Jun 9, 2009 · Updates|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
A long, slightly meandering route that wanders up ledgy climbing to the left of the main East Face routes (Jim Dandy, Peek-a-boo, Skip to My Lou, etc.). The "hidden crack" is all of 20 feet long - the climbing is much more traditional Table Rock slab. It's good, with bolted anchors on every pitch (pitch 4 anchors have been replaced. There is a set of bolts with rings at the top of p4, or you can climb 30’ higher tonthe walk-off trail to a set of bolts without rings). The climbing is fun and can be used to escape some of the crowds. It's hard to find the start.
P1(110 ft, 5.7): From the tree on the right side of the narrow ledge (described below), head up and right, generally following lichen-free rock up the outside of the bulging buttress. After the "hidden crack", clip a few bolts that protect some slabby moves (crux) and then finish up and right at a two-bolt anchors. (Note: there are two sets of bolts up here; one is for Hidden Crack and the other is for Persistence of Vision (5.9), a route that climbs the left wall of the Peek-a-boo gully. Either set will work for this route.)
P2(110 ft, 5.5): Climb easier ground up and 60' right, to the far right side of the large tree ledge. There is a two-bolt anchor on the far right side the ledge, beside the roofy corner. Beware of dislodging dead fall and loose rock if you go for the trees.
P3(110 ft, 5.7): Climb straight up looking for a bolt 25ft above the belay through the steep section, clip it then move up and right on big, funky holds until established above the roof. Then, climb up and left past another bolt, eventually reaching a two-bolt anchor above the slab at a little ledge. From this anchor, one 60 m rope will just barely get you to the tree ledge with stretch, you'll have to pull rope before carefully walking over to the next rap station. 70m will just barely get you to the bolts, be sure KNOT YOUR ENDS!!!
P4 (100 ft, 5.7): From the anchor, move left and up through blocky ground, aiming for a corner/crack system that trends slightly right. Move up this a little, then move back left around the overlap, following the biggest holds and cleanest rock. Above, move up slabby ground, eventually trending right to the 3rd class terrain on the left end of Lightning Ledge.
Descent: Scramble up Lightning Ledge and trail to top. From the top walk climbers right for 100 yards or so, and look for an established trail on the left that will take to back to the parking lot. Or go back to Lunch Ledge and rappel from two bolt anchor above P3 of Cave Route (also called "The Block"). This rappel to lunch ledge requires 1 60 meter rope with some downclimbing, two 60 meter ropes, or 1 70 meter rope. When rapping w a single 70 from the 2nd pitch anchor at the ledge, the Wooly Aphid or Cornsnake crack anchors are directly below and easiest to reach without swinging over so far. Rap to the Cornsnake ledge from there and then to ground.
(edit notes: previous 2nd pitch beta was incorrect, it's way longer than 60' and anchors are on the ledge, not below it. Other pitches' distances were underestimated also, we passed halfway w a 70m at every belay. Also added more detailed rappel beta)