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Routes in Table Rock

Alternate Reality T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Tears T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Cave Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Center Stage T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Champ's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Consolation Prize S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cool-down route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cornsnake Crack T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crackerjack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crushed Velvet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Devil’s Cellar Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ellie Raynolds Memorial Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excess Reality T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Field's Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fresh Garbage T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging High T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Helmet Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Helmet Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hobble and Gobble T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hobbling Hobbit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Honeymoon, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
ICU T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indecent exposure T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Irish Stout T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Iron Maiden T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jim Dandy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Junior's Last Laugh T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Just Say Moo S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
K-Mart Special T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lateral Inhibition T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
My Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peek-a-Boo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Peterbuilt S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Refrain T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Rip Van Winkle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Second Stanza T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sideshow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Skip to My Lou T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slippin' into Darkness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Solar Plexus T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tall Climb to Be Good On T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tankslapper S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trundler, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Pitch T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Warm Up Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Waste A Bit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
What's Up Doc? T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wooly Aphid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Lawrence, Dave Mashburn (1967)
Page Views: 6,216 total, 47/month
Shared By: Coz Teplitz on Feb 28, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A Table Rock classic that roasts in the sun on the south face. The bombay chimney on the last pitch is a delightful squirm.

This is the obvious corner/crack/chimney system that splits the south face of Table Rock.

Start: Beneath the obvious corner system. There is often a cheater stack at the base to help folks through the hard first move.

P1: Make a hard high step (perhaps the crux of the route), then wander up the crack in the corner to below the big roof (older anchor below roof). Exit right (5.7) through steep ground on good holds and belay above. NOTE: If you don't want to bring big cams (4" or so) to belay in the main crack, there is a stance up and right on a block. The pro for this second anchor is good but tricky to find.) EDIT: Apparently there are bolts here now. Who knows how long they will last.

P2: Move up the widening crack. Navigate a bulge (great hand jams in the back) and pull into an alcove atop a chockstone in the chimney (possible belay). Squirm up the chimney above.

Location

This is the obvious corner/crack/chimney system that splits the south face of Table Rock. It is visible from the parking lot.

Approach by hiking the TR summit trail a few hundred yards until the East Face climber's trail cuts right. Go ~200 feet along the East face trail, then look for a small trail heading uphill. Follow this small trail for ~100 yards.

The climb starts below the obvious corner. Look for a cheater stack that often helps folks through the challenging first move.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 3"; optional 4" piece for the belay atop P1.

Photos

Stephen McKinney
Columbia, SC
  5.8+
Stephen McKinney   Columbia, SC
  5.8+
Awesome climb. Not like most of the other climbs on Table Rock. Rope drag can get you on the last bit of the first pitch, so use long runners. Second pitch is intimidating for a new 5.8 leader. Getting from the wide crack of pitch 2 back to the face is a little less featured than you'd hope, but it's all there. I put a #4 in the back of the chimney then moved back out closer to the opening to chimney up. I put a purple cam in a horizontal about 6-8 feet up from the #4 and ran out the last bit. You're so squished up in there it'd be hard to take a fall. I used the obvious crack up and right after the exit to set up anchor. Nov 17, 2017
I have 2 good stories about this route. One summer day in the late 80's I hooked up with a guy and we did this route. I don't remember, but I think his name was Jimmy. He was almost as skinny as me, and had curly red hair. I don't remember who led the first pitch, but I led the 2nd. I made a move or two up the second pitch and found a piece of gear. I said "OH WOW!" I went a little further and found another. Then another. The whole pitch was like that. It was very creepy. Kind of like coming across the Mary Celeste. When we got to the top, he (Jimmy?) took the gear and headed off to Arizona to climb there. I was talking to Doug Reed a few days later and he had heard about it. Apparently it belonged to Byron who had been guiding for Outward Bound. OOPS! When they got to the top it started to rain. Byron figured he'd come back later and solo up to get the gear. But we showed up first. The second story occurred several years later. Dan Flowers, Sean Cobourn & I were hanging around the parking lot after the sun had set. This might have been the same day we re-bolted MY Route. We heard a girl's voice calling for help from near the top of Cracker Jacks. Dan & I went to get her. We were heading up the trail when we met 2 guys coming down. They had for some odd reason, left her, rappelled down, and were going to get her. (I know-it doesn't make sense.) We told them we would get her. They asked what they could do to help. Dan, being Dan, said, "You've done enough already!" One got mad. I stepped in between and said "First we'll get her down, then fight." We headed to the base of Cracker Jacks, Dan took my Gibbs ascenders, and headed up the rope. Apparently, the damsel in distress was the wife of the quiet guy, who was an F.B.I. agent. We had fun with that. We told him Dan Was a ladies man. That was a lie. He was a whore! When I'd camp with him, I'd plug every hole I had and sleep with a large, very powerful gun in each hand. Anyway, F.B.I. guy said he didn't care as long as she was smiling when she got down. We assured him she would be. Dan took a long time when he got to the ledge, but eventually he lowered her. She was cute. No wonder he took so long. Dan spent the rest of the evening making "High Speed, Low Drag" climber jokes. Hopefully the guy who came up with the plan to leave her there, got a little bit of instruction and learned to use it before taking his friends climbing again. Oct 18, 2017
Excellent climb! I'll call it an NC classic. It certainly stands proud as a unique type of adventure for the region. The move off the ground is not the hardest of the climb (hell no). The wide crack groveling and chimney contortions are way harder. It's full value 5.8. Enjoy the incredible belay position at the top of P1! Apr 3, 2017
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
This route gets a lot of seepage after rain. Makes the roof section on P1 and the chimney section on P2 much more difficult. Apr 3, 2017
Jcastleberry  
 
Parking lot to parking lot in under 49 mins. Anyone under 30 mins? May 16, 2016
Curtis Baird
  5.9
Curtis Baird  
  5.9
This route awesome! But it is NOT a beginner 5.8. This climb requires some off width and chimney climbing that is not common in Linville, especially Table Rock. The first pitch is pretty sustained and rope drag can be an issue. The first move off the ground is pretty hard. As for the second pitch, larger cams are not necessary if you don't mind running it out a lot. The first off width crack will take BD #3 and #2 and some larger hexes. I could not find anything in the upper chimney that would take a #3. Bring #4s and #5s for this section. The risk of falling is low if your comfortable with chimneys, but a slip could result in a huge fall with out larger cams for protection. Don't bring a backpack as it is hard enough with a rack of gear. In the chimney I got my helmet stuck so taking it off might have been the best option at that point. Overall it was an excellent climb very different from the Table Rock style. My first chimney climb and off width crack. I would recommend following P2 if you have not climbed this style before and to bring larger cams to protect the chimney. Definitely a classic in my book! May 26, 2015
Brian Payst
Carrboro,NC
 
Brian Payst   Carrboro,NC
 
We climbed this on 4/27/2014 and there is a basketball sized loose block at the exit moves near the top of the chimney on the 2nd pitch. Use caution as it's easy to grab it from below when reaching up for a jug. I was going to trundle it, but there were people in the area below. Fun route, but you want to be solid at the grade, we didn't use anything larger than a #3 Camalot. Apr 28, 2014
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
  5.8+
Jonathan Dull   Boone, NC
  5.8+
This is a fantastic climb with sustained climbed throughout. Getting off the deck takes a little thinking and a spot may be in order. The climbing is pretty steep and I remember actually hanging off a perfect jam with 90+ feet below me! As previously mentioned continue up and right through the steep (and juggy) section and you will find the bolted belay just below the start of the 2nd pitch chimney/offwidth . I seconded the second pitch with a pack dangling between my legs, and it sucks!! Either leave the pack on the ground or try and grab the lead for 2nd pitch. Sep 4, 2013
Lee Kennedy
Raleigh, North Carolina
Lee Kennedy   Raleigh, North Carolina
Anyone know if the 12a that breaks off to the left after P1 is still doable? It's in the guidebook, but I don't see it here. Called Helios I think? Apr 12, 2013
Cody Bradford
Boone, NC
  5.8
Cody Bradford   Boone, NC
  5.8
There are two options for the 2nd pitch chimney:
1. You can stay on the outside of the Chimney which is more featured and less awkward.
2. You may choose to romp it up inside the chimney where it is possible to place a 5 or 6 Camalot in the back. (You may want to take your helmet off for this option)
No need for anything larger than a number three on this one. Just slide it up the back of the crack as you move. Jun 18, 2012
brian k sohn
knoxville, tn
 
brian k sohn   knoxville, tn
 
The first pitch can be top-roped with a 70 meter rope. May 23, 2012
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
All around Great Climb with a little bit of everything!!! First pitch has excellent face climbing with tons of pro. There are old bolt anchors under the main roof with bushes around it on the first pitch, but climb up and right through the juggy roof section to arrive a'top a massive boulder with brand spanking new bolt anchors under the beginning of the second pitch crack. Second pitch is super fun, a little spooky just because of the awkwardness of your body position. Big gear is helpful but you can totally find places for mid sized gear as well! Leave your backpack on the ground if you can because it makes this second pitch a pain to wear one!! Mar 13, 2012
Big gear helpful. Chimney section short I think 5.7 with adequate pro. Take big gear and walk it up the 5.8 offwidth early on second pitch. By big I mean threes, fours, maybe a five. First few moves on p1 are not protected. Sep 18, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
There are bolts atop P1 boulder now. I would say a 4" or 5" is mandatory for the offwidth start for P2. Oct 5, 2009